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Slight reminiscences of a septuag 



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SLIGHT REMINISCENCES OF 
A SEPTUAGENARIAN. 



LONDON 

PRINTED DY SPOTTISWOODE AND CO. 

NEW-STKEET SQUARE 



SLIGHT REMINISCENCES 



OF 



A SEPTUAGENARIAN 



FROM 1802 TO 1815 



BY 



«,^s^ 



EMMA SOPHIA COUNTESS BROWNLOW 



THIRD EDITION 




LONDON. 

JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET 

1868 

The right 0/ iranslation is reserved 



TO 

THE EARL OF CARNARVON. 



Dear Lord Carnarvon, 

It was you who first suggested to 
me that I should collect and put in writing 
some of my remembrances of persons and 
events that passed before me more than 
half a century ago, in the days of my 
youth; and in its progress you have kindly 
encouraged me in my little attempt at 
authorship. 

The slight work being now completed, 
I hope you will still further extend your 
kindness by allowing it to appear under 
the sanction of your name. 

Believe me, dear Lord Carnarvon, with 
sincere regard,- 

Yours very truly, 

E. S. Brownlow. 



PREFACE. 




am now an old woman, and 
having lived in stirring times 
from my youth, and most of 
my contemporaries having dropped 
around me, I am also an old chronicle 
with the memories of bygone days 
still fresh in my mind. 



Some of my friends have expressed 
a wish that I should commit to paper 
my recollections of public events that 



viii Preface. 

I witnessed, and of eminent persons who 
figured in those events, and with whom 
circumstances made me acquainted. I 
will try to do so, and the occupation 
will, I think, give interest to many a 
lonely hour. 

April, 1866. 




SLIGHT REMINISCENCES 



OF A 



SEPTUAGENARIAN. 




ATELY I was asked: 'What 
is the first political event 
you remember ? ' I answered, 
' The proclamation of the Peace of 
Amiens in the year 1802.' But on 
reflection, I find that my memory takes 
toe back to the year 1798, the year 
after the mutiny in the .fleet, when I 
saw a procession of boats rowing, and on 



2 Reminiscences of 1802. 

inquiring what they were doing, was told 
they were flogging some mutineers round 
the ships in Plymouth Sound. The 
horror of this was increased, and im- 
pressed on my child-mind by hearing 
that the toast of these wretched men had 
been ' A dark night, a sharp knife, and 
a bloody blanket.' For many a night I 
went to my bed in fear and trembling. 



1802. 

The Peace of 1 802 brought, I suppose, 
many French to England ; but I only 
remember one, the celebrated Madame 
Recamier, who created a sensation, partly 
by her beauty, but still more by her 
dress, which was vastly unlike the unso- 
phisticated style and poke bonnets of 
the English women. She appeared in 



i8o2. A Septuagenarian. 3 

Kensington Gardens a Vantique, a mus- 
lin gown clinging to her form like the 
folds of the drapery on a statue ; her 
hair in a plait at the back, and falling in 
small ringlets round her face, and greasy 
/with huile antique ; a large veil thrown 
over the head completed her attire, that 
not unnaturally caused her to be followed 
and stared at. 

As the Continent was now again open 
to travellers, my mother was advised to 
go to Spa for the benefit of her health. 
Troops of English arrived there. The 
Duchess of Gordon and Lady Georgiana 
Gordon, Lord and Lady Conyngham, 
Lord and Lady Bradford, Mr. and Lady 
Charlotte Greville, Mr. and Lady Susan 
Ryder (afterwards Lord and Lady 
Harrowby), &c., &c., and many water 
drinkers and pleasure seekers from 



4 . 'Reminiscences of 1802. 

Russia, Poland, and France. The latter 
country contributed a Revolutionary, ill- 
famed celebrity, the odious Barras ! I 
fancy I see him now, with his ignoble 
figure, and his lowering bad countenance: 
as far as my recollection goes, always 
alone, and looking as if he felt that every 
one knew who he was and what he 
was. I believe I must have been a mo- 
ralising, impressionable child, from the 
effect the sight of this man always pro- 
duced upon me. But enough of Barras, 
and enough of Spa, for although innu- 
merable remembrances of things that 
interested me at the time rise before me, 
they are not worth setting down ; so I 
will take myself to Frankfort, where we 
arrived during the great autumnal fair, 
and where we remained a fortnight. My 
father and mother found but few ac- 



i8o2. A Septuagenarian. 5 

quaintances ; amongst them were the 
Stadtholder and his wife, the Princess of 
Orange nie a princess of Prussia, and 
their son and his wife (also a princess of 
Prussia, sister of the reigning king) who 
afterwards became king and queen des 
Pays-Bas. 

In 1802 the Jews were still obliged to 
live in one part of the town, and my 
sister, our governess and I, walking 
round the Boulevards, lost our way, and 
found ourselves dans le quartier juif, 
from which we were most glad to es- 
cape, as we were surrounded, and almost 
mobbed, by a peculiarly unprepossessing, 
unpleasing set of people, who seemed 
inclined to be impertinent. 

From Frankfort we went to Louisberg, 
the summer residence of the Duke of 
Wurtemberg, as my father and mother 



6 Reminiscences of 1802. 

wished to pay their respects to the 
Duchess, our Princess Royal. Nothing 
could exceed the kindness shown them. 
Carriages were sent to take them about 
the park, and they and Mr. Mercer (who 
was travelling with us) dined both days 
of their stay at the palace. On the last 
day my sister and I were sent for to pass 
the afternoon with two young ladies 
brought up by H. R. H., and in the 
evening we joined the party in the draw- 
ing room. The Duke was playing whist 
at a table made to admit him, as his size 
and form could not have approached near 
enough to a common straight table. His 
face was handsome, but there was some- 
thing suspicious and not agreeable in his 
countenance. He seemed to be watch- 
ing the Duchess and trying to hear what 
passed between her and my father and 



i8o2'. A Septuagenarian. 7 

mother. H. R. H. was also very large 
but not in the same way, being shapeless 
and like a figure made of snow. She 
had a pleasant,.good-humoured face, with- 
out any pretensions to beauty. Her 
habits and dress were peculiar. She 
rose about six o'clock, and made her 
toilet for the whole day. When I saw 
her, she wore on her head a turban of 
some soft material, with her hair frizzed 
and powdered. The Duke's two sons 
were absent, but his daughter, afterwards 
the wife of Jerome Bonaparte, king of 
Westphalia, was at home. She too was 
fat, with a handsome face. 

Rumours of war — which shortened our 
tour — took us to Paris instead of to 
Rome. . . We went one morning to see 
a sight seen I imagine by few English 



8 Reminiscences of .1802. 

now alive; Bonaparte, le Premier Con- 
sul, reviewing his troops in the Place dii 
Carrousel ! An acquaintance my father 
had made (I forget who) gave us ad- 
mittance into a room on the rez-de- 
chaussie of the Tuileries, and for nearly 
two hours the great man passed and 
repassed before the windows close to us. 
He was attended by Rustan, his favourite 
Mameluke, in his national costume ; and 
le Prince Eugene de Beauharnois, the 
son of Josephine, was there, commanding 
I think the light cavalry ; but my eyes 
and attention were riveted on Bonaparte. 
He was then thin, and his figure ap- 
peared to be mesquin ; but how grand 
was his face, with its handsome features, 
its grave and stern and somewhat me- 
lancholy expression ! A face, once seen, 
never to be forgotten. It fascinated and 



i8o2. A Septuagenarian. 9 

acted upon me like a rattlesnake, for, 
though a mere child, I felt all the English 
horror of the man, and yet could not look 
at him without admiration mixed with 
awe. 

It was the month of November, and 
cold weather, and therefore the walking 
dress of the majority of the women sur- 
prised us not a little. It consisted of a 
gown tres-dicolletie, and extremely short- 
waisted, with apparently only<7;^^ garment 
under it ; this gown they held up so as to 
discover one Jambe, a shawl hung over 
the shoulders, the feet chaussh in their 
slippers, no bonnet or cap, and the 
curls on each side of the face greasy 
with huile antique. 

****** 

Left Paris and arrived at my father's 



lo Reminiscences of 1803. 

villa on Ham Common, near Richmond, 
in December. Soon after, we were all 
honoured by an invitation from Queen 
Charlotte to a Christmas ball given by 
H. M. at Frogmore, for Princess Char- 
lotte, who was then a gay sprightly child, 
with fair hair, blue eyes, and pretty 
features, but a rather muddled skin with- 
out colour. The King, Queen, and all 
the royal family were so kind and good- 
natured, that it was impossible to see a 
happier or merrier set of children than 
we were. I remember the Prince of 
Wales carrying about my brother Er- 
nest's hat, which he had left in the most 
unceremonious manner on his knee. 

1803. 
In A.D. 1803, war was declared and 
invasion threatened by Bonaparte, which 



1805. A Septuagenarian. 11 

aroused all the national patriotism, and 
volunteer corps were everywhere formed. 
Even Ham Common boasted its squad, 
in which our coachman and a footman 
figured. And they had their inspections 
and field-days, with other corps ; and we 
were all very proud, when they returned 
from one of these with laurel in their 
caps. 

1805. 
My father and mother used to go for 
some weeks in the autumn to Mount 
Edgcumbe, leaving my sister, my young- 
est brother and me under the charge 
of our governess in the villa on Ham 
Common, where, with the exception of 
an occasional morning visit from some 
of my grandmother's old lady friends 
who lived in the neighbourhood, or a 



1 2 Reminiscences of 1805. 

delightful day or two passed with our 
kind uncle and aunt, Lord and Lady 
Castlereagh, at a villa they then had 
at East Shene, our life was almost con- 
ventual. Not a man in the house, and 
the front door chained and locked, we 
knew little or nothing of what was pass- 
ing in the world beyond the Common. 

Greatly, then, were we startled when, 
in the month of October this year, some 
one rushed in and said there had been 
a great naval victory ; that the French 
and Spanish fleets were annihilated, but 
that Nelson was killed ! On hearing 
which, to the utter astonishment of my 
governess and the others in the room, 
I fell down as if I had been shot. An 
astonishment that, on reflection, I felt 
also ; for, as I had never seen Nelson, I 
could not account for such an effect 



i8o6. A Septuagenarian. 13 

being caused by the announcement of 
his death. 



1806. 

In January Pitt died ; then came on 
Lord Melville's trial, to which my sister 
and I were taken one day by my grand- 
mother, myjTiother being too ill to go. 
It was a striking sight, and made a great 
impression on me. The Lord Chan- 
cellor (Erskine), the judges, the peers, 
all in their robes, the House of Commons 
and the Speaker ; at the bar Lord Mel- 
ville, who was seated, surrounded by the 
counsel for and against him ; and in a 
sort of box near, the members of the 
House of Commons who were the 
managers of the trial. Amongst them 
were Sheridan, Whitbread, and Fox, who 



14 Reminiscences of 1806. 

I then saw for the first and only time. 
His form, features, and bushy eyebrows, 
I knew well from prints and caricatures ; 
but his complexion struck me as very 
peculiar, and, as I said when I returned 
home, it was the colour that yellow crape 
would have stretched over black. He 
was then probably ill, for he died some 
weeks after, I think before the termina- 
tion of the trial. 

In the following August, death came 
into our home ! We lost our mother ! 
She had been in bad health for some 
years, and had gone this summer to try 
the air of Tonbridge Wells ; but, as is 
frequently the case in lingering illnesses, 
the end was sudden, and came like an 
unexpected shock. 

My father removed with us, in the 



i8o7. A Septuagenarian. 15 

course of a few weeks, to Mount Edg- 
cumbe, and we never returned to the 
house on Ham Common, which was sold. 
From that time we passed our summers 
at Mount Edgcumbe. I was then just 
fifteen, my sister fifteen months younger, 
and the youngest of my three brothers 
only six. 



1807. 

In the spring of this year, my father, 
hearing that the Princess of Wales was 
going to Plymouth, wrote to offer Mount 
Edgcumbe to H.R.H. during her stay 
in the neighbourhood. H.R.H. accepted 
the offer, and passed a fortnight there. 
Her suite consisted of Lady Hester 
Stanhope, Col. James Stanhope her 
brother, Admiral Sir Samuel and Lady 



1 6 Reminiscences of 1807. 

Hood, Mrs. Fitzgerald, and little Billy 
Austin. I doubt whether my father 
knew the Princess personally at that 
time. He thought her an ill-used, 
slandered woman. Some years after- 
wards he changed his opinion, from 
anecdotes he heard from an eye-witness 
of her conduct while at Mount Edg- 
cumbe. ■ \ 

The beauty of Mount Edgcumbe, and 
its neighbourhood to Plymouth and the 
dockyard, attracted most of the princi- 
pal foreigners who came to England. 
Amongst the first I remember was a 
Pope's Nuncio, on his way from Portugal 
to South America. He was brought by 
Count Souza, the Portuguese Ambassa- 
dor, and was accompanied by a large 
suite. The Nuncio himself was a fine 
dignified-looking old man, with a bene- 



i8o7. A Septuagenarian. 17 

volent countenance, but the suite were a 
most grubby, dirty set ; and the chaplain 
or aumonier wore a hat Hke BasiHo's, in 
'Figaro,' and had his spectacles tied round 
his head with pack thread ; which terribly 
taxed the risible muscles of my sister 
and self — then very young girls. The 
last English ground the Nuncio trod was 
that of the private landing place at 
Mount Edgcumbe, from which he went 
to the ship, in Plymouth Sound, which 
was to take him on his long voyage. 

On the 26th of December, my excel- 
lent grandmother died. She was a grand 
old woman — high-minded, high-man- 
nered, with an intellect of the highest 
order, and a heart young and warm to 
the last. 



1 8 Reminiscences oj 1809. 

1809. 

Early in 1809 came the news of the 
battle of Corunna, the death of Sir John 
Moore, and the embarcation of the 
English army. I remember the circum- 
stances well. Lord Castlereagh had a 
large party at dinner, and in the middle 
of it his brother, Sir Charles Stewart, 
arrived with the despatches of the glo- 
rious yet disastrous victory. The dinner 
was followed by an evening party, at 
which I first saw Sir Arthur Wellesley, 
then Secretary for Ireland, and who came 
in quite ignorant of the important intelli- 
gence that awaited him. How well I 
recollect his coming into the room, and 
his being seized upon and taken to a 
window by Lady Grantham, from whom 
he first heard what had happened. The 



iSog. A Septuagenarian. 19 

general excitement that prevailed may- 
be imagined. 

****** 
Our next foreign visitor at Mount 
Edgcumbe was the Hereditary Prince of 
Orange, who came on a tour during the 
long vacation at Oxford, attended by 
Baron Constant and a Mr. Johnstone. 
The Prince passed two nights at Mount 
Edgcumbe, and he was so pleasant, 
gay, and good-humoured, that we all 
liked him extremely. Fortunately Lord 
and Lady Hinchingbroke were staying 
with us, and Lord Brownlow and Mr. 
Henry Cust, having sent to ask to see 
the place, my father invited them to join 
our party, so we had an agreeable little 
society, and were all very merry. How 
strangely things turn out, and how little 
did I imagine at that time that this exiled 



20 Reminiscences of 1809. 

Prince would become King of Holland, 
or that I, after the lapse of many years, 
should be the third wife of Lord Brown- 
low ! 



Prince Paul Esterhazy, afterwards 
Austrian Ambassador in England, was, 
as a young man, another of our foreign 
guests. A M. Major accompanied him. 
We had no party to meet him ; this, 
however, did not matter, for he was 
most gay and agreeable, and in after 
years often referred with pleasure to that 
commencement of our friendly inter- 
course. 

****** 

In October the jubilee of George the 
Third was celebrated. Plymouth and 
Devonport (then Plymouth Dock), and 



i8o9, A Septuagenarian. 21 

my father, as Lord Lieutenant of Corn- 
wall, were not behindhand in demon- 
strations of loyalty. It was a bustling 
day for us, beginning with a distribution 
of meat and bread to the poor, on our 
way to church, after which we went to 
see the salutes from the ships, and then 
returned to the house to receive as many 
of our Cornish neighbours as it would 
hold. When it was dark, salutes were 
fired from all the batteries (our own in- 
cluded), followed by a feu de joie from 
the lines, all which looked beautiful from 
our windows. The whole concluded with 
a ball we gave, to which came admirals, 
generals, authorities, officers of the army 
and navy, and our friends in the neigh- 
bourhood. Lady Boringdon (since Lady 
Morley), recently married, made her first 
appearance at it^ and from that time an 



22 Reminiscences of iSio. 

intimacy and friendship commenced 
which only ended with her hfe. 



1810-11. 

Princess Amelia died on the 2nd of 
November, and soon after the poor King 
had a return of his fearful mental malady. 
Parliament was summoned, and the Prince 
of Wales was sworn in Regent in Feb- 
ruary, 181 1. During the debates on the 
Regency question, my sister and I went 
on a visit to our aunt Lady Suffield at 
Bleckling, which she had inherited from 
my grandfather. Lord Buckinghamshire, 
and accompanied her and Lord Suffield 
to Gunton, his place, only five miles 
distant. 



i8u. A Septuagenarian. 23 

My father had met the Princess of 
Wales several times at dinner at her 
mother's, the Dowager Duchess of 
Brunswick, and Her Royal Highness 
invited him, my sister and me to a 
ball at Kensington Palace, and fre- 
quently to others. I had scarcely ever 
seen the Princess, and hardly knew 
her by sight. At the time of which I 
speak, her figure was fat and somewhat 
shapeless ; her face had probably been 
pretty in her youth, for her nose was 
well formed, her complexion must have 
been good, and she had bright blue eyes, 
but the expression of them was bold, 
which, however, might be partly caused 
by the quantity of rouge she wore^ Her 
fair hair hung. in masses of curls on each 
side of her throat, like a lion's mane. 
Everybody, before the peace with France, 



24 Reminiscences of iSn. 

dressed much according to their indi- 
vidual taste, and Her Royal Highness 
was of a showy turn ; her gowns were 
generally ornamented with gold or silver 
spangles, and her satin boots were also 
embroidered with them. Sometimes 
she wore a scarlet mantle, with a gold 
trimming round it, hanging from her 
shoulders, and as she swam, so attired, 
down an English dance, with no regard 
to the figure, the effect was rather 
strange. The parties themselves were 
marvellously heterogeneous in their com- 
position. There were good people and 
very bad ; fine ladies and fine gentlemen ; 
hum-drums and clever people ; amongst 
the latter the Rev. Sydney Smith, who I 
thought looked out of place there. In 
consequence, I suppose, of my father's 
having lent Mount Edgcumbe to 



i8i2. A Septuagenarian. 25 

H.R.H., she made rather a fuss with us, 
and we both always supped at her table. 
On one occasion I was much amused at 
seeing my father opposite to me, seated 
between the Duchess of Montrose and 
Lady Oxford ! Sure never were there 
more incongruous supporters, and my 
father's countenance was irresistibly 
comic — perfectly grave, but with a slight 
curl at the corner of the mouth, which 
showed how he appreciated the absurdity 
of his position. ' Methought,' said he, as 
we drove home, ' that I was Hercules 
between Virtue and Vice.' 



t8i2. 
My sister married Mr. Macdonald of 
Clanronald in February. 



26 Reminiscences of 1813. 

1813. 

As this is neither a history nor a 
regular journal, but merely notes and 
reminiscences of persons and things that 
interested me, and were mostly also of 
general interest, I shall skip a year and 
resume my story in London, where we 
went in the middle of December 181 3. 
Minds had become agitated and hopes 
had arisen from the continued reverses of 
the French army, pursued by the Allied 
forces even into France. Holland, too, 
had thrown off the French yoke on the 
6th of this month, and had sent over a 
deputation to the Stadtholder in En- 
gland, begging him to return, which he 
did instantly. This was the state of 
things when we came to London. A 
few days after our arrival, Lord and 



i8i3. A Septuagenarian. 27 

Lady Castlereagh took me and my 
brother George to the play in the Prince 
Regent's box. Besides ourselves there 
were Count and Countess Lieven, and 
Count Poz2o di Borgo, who had just come 
to England. The three gentlemen fre- 
quently retired to converse in the room 
at the back of the box, but it was not 
till some time later that I knew the 
subject of their discussion, which was 
nothing less than that Lord Castlereagh , 
should proceed to Chatillon to meet the 
ministers of the other great powers, and 
there enter into negotiations with Bona- 
parte. A friend of mine has told me 
that, speaking on this subject with Count 
Pozzo di Borgo, he said, ' y'ai dit a Lord 
Castlereagh, si vous pouvez ressusciter 
Pitt, envoyez-le, mais si cela n'est pas 
possible, venez vous-mime.' 



28 Reminiscences of 1813. 

When this was finally settled, Lady 
Castlereagh gave me the information, 
and at the same time delighted me and 
my brother Valletort, by asking us to 
accompany her and Lord Castlereagh. 
My father readily gave his consent, and 
we instantly began to make our small 
preparations, as in a very few days we 
were to begin our journey. 



Extracts from a journal kept while in 
Holland. 

On the 26th we went down early on a 
foggy morning to St. James's Square, as 
eleven o'clock was the hour named for 
starting ; but no Lord Castlereagh was 
there ; he was in council with the other 
ministers. Lady Castlereagh, too, was 
sent for by the Princess Charlotte, with 



i8i3. A Septuagenarian. 29 

whom she remained a long while, and 
was the bearer of a letter from the 
Princess to the Hereditary Prince of 
Orange, between whom and H.R.H. a 
marriage was in contemplation. 

Hours passed, my father called to say 
good-bye again, the fog went on in- 
creasing, and Lord Castlereagh returned 
so late that it was settled we should 
have dinner before starting; so not till 
seven o'clock did we leave St. James's 
Square, and in a fog so intense that the 
carriages went at a foot's pace, with men 
holding flambeaux at the head of the 
horses. In this manner we proceeded to 
Rumford, a distance of ten miles, which 
we reached at eleven o'clock, and where 
we remained the night. The next 
morning we started early, breakfasted 
at Colchester, and arrived midday at 



30 Reminiscences of 1813. 

Harwich, the sun smiHng uponus, but the 
wind, alas ! being against us. Our party 
consisted of Mr. Frederick Robinson 
and Mr. W. Montagu, as Lord Castle- 
reagh's secretaries, Mr. Planta, his pri- 
vate secretary. Count Pozzo di Borgo in 
the diplomatic service of Russia, my 
brother Valletort, Mr. A. Stewart, first 
cousin of Lord Castlereagh, and myself 
Captain Forbes, who commanded the 
' Erebus,' the ship that was to take 
Lord Castlereagh to Helvoetsluys, met 
Lord Castlereagh at Harwich. The next 
day we went on board, but soon were 
becalmed, and for three days were obliged 
to anchor off the port. This was cer- 
tainly vexatious, but the time passed 
pleasantly, as I had a great deal of con- 
versation with Count Pozzo di Borgo, 
who was most agreeable, and interested 



i8i4. A Septuagenarian. 31 

me much by his observations on Madame 
de Stael and Chateaubriand, and their 
writings. At last came a wind, ending 
in a gale, accompanied by heavy 
snows, and a frost so sharp, that the 
men were tumbling about on the deck. 
To add to our misfortunes, neither the 
captain nor the pilot knew the Dutch 
coast, so, for three wretched nights, the 
ship was anchored and tossed about in 
the open sea, and at one time we were in 
great peril, but happily the captain of 
the ' Nymphen ' frigate, who happened to 
be shooting on the land, saw our danger, 
and sent a Dutch pilot to the rescue, 
and at length, on January 5, we landed 
in safety at Helvoetsluys. 

From the ' Erebus ' to the landing- 
place we went some distance in a boat, 
and as we passed a fort, it saluted Lord 



32 Reminiscences of 1814. 

Castlereagh. When the first gun was 
fired, I exclaimed, ' There was a shot 
in that gun.' A chorus of ' Pooh, non- 
sense,' greeted my observation. Bang 
went another gun, and whiz went an- 
other shot. Again I said, ' I am sure 
there was a shot' More jeers greeted 
me ; but Captain Forbes backed me, 
saying, 'Lady Emma is quite right; 
there was a shot' And so there was 
to each gun. Fortunately they went 
over our heads instead of through them. 
What was the reason of this warlike 
salute I never heard ; but possibly it 
was only to give a sharper sound to the 
report, which it certainly did. 

Lord Castlereagh was received with ac- 
clamations by the inhabitants assembled 
on the pier, and the admiral conducted 
us to the Admiralty house : he and his 



i8i4. A Septuagenarian. 33 

captain spoke with warmth of the prompt 
assistance their country had received 
from England during the late events. 

Thursday, 6th. — Left Helvoetsluys as 
soon as it was possible to get horses 
for the carriages. At Brill Lord 
Castlereagh was received by the com- 
manding officer and the magistrates, 
who conducted us to the principal inn, 
where refreshments were prepared. 
From Brill we crossed a small arm of 
the sea in a ferry-boat to the island of 
Rosenberg, over which we were jolted in 
a rough carriage to the second ferry, and 
landed at Maas-sluys, where we found 
Lord Clancarty's carriage, in which Lord 
and Lady Castlereagh and I proceeded 
to the Hague. The rest of the party were 
left at the Brill to come on with the 
carriages. We did not arrive at the 



34 Reminiscences of 1814, 

Hague till dark, and were surprised at 
finding ourselves ushered into a fine 
house belonging to a M. Schuylenbach 
de Bommenade, who had kindly offered 
to receive us till other accommodation 
could be procured. We dined with our 
ambassador, Lord Clancarty, where I had 
the pleasure of finding my old friend 
Lord Bradford. Lady Clancarty (first 
cousin of Lady Castlereagh) and her 
family had not yet arrived from England; 
In the evening we returned to our kind 
hosts. 

Friday, "jth. — Lord Castlereagh and 
all the English gentlemen at the 
Hague dined with the Prince. M. and 
Madame de Schuylenbach invited a 
large party to dinner to meet Lady 
Castlereagh, who, as well as I, ap- 
peared in orange, which vastly pleased 



i8i4. A Sephmgenarian. 35 

the good folks, who took to us both 
extremely. 

Saturday, ^tk. — Hearing that the 
reigning Princess was to arrive in the 
course of the morning at the Maison du 
Bois, a small but pretty palace situated 
in a wood about two miles from the 
town, Lady Castlereagh and myself, 
accompanied by Lord Bradford, Mr. 
Stewart, and my brother, walked there 
through the snow to witness her recep- 
tion. After standing some time in the 
crowd, the Hereditary Prince (my old 
acquaintance), seeing us frorn the win- 
dows, came and conducted us into the 
palace, and showed us several of the 
apartments. In one were two little beds, 
in which King Louis' children (one the 
present Emperor, Louis Napoleon) slept, 
and the hurry of their departure was 



36 Reminiscences of 1814- 

evident from the fact that the beds were 
unmade, and some silver tea-spoons were 
left about the room. The Prince of Orange 
came to speak to Lady Castlereagh, but 
it being almost immediately announced 
to him and his son that the Princess 
was arriving, they flew to the door to 
receive her, and we saw the meeting from 
one of the windows. The Hereditary 
Prince handed his mother up the steps, 
and the Prince carried his little daughter 
in his arms ; they all seemed deeply 
affected, and the air was rent with the 
acclamations of the multitude below. It 
was indeed a touching sight to witness 
the enthusiastic and heartfelt reception 
of these Princes after an exile of nine- 
teen years, and the joy of the people at 
having recovered their freedom. The 
royal party remained but a short time in 



i8i4. A Septuagenarian. 37 

the Maison du Bois, and then went in 
procession to the Hague, at the entrance 
of which the horses were taken off, and 
their carriage was drawn by the populace 
to the palace. At night the whole town 
was illuminated. Lord Castlereagh and 
his suite, and Count Pozzo di Borgo, set 
off in the evening for the head-quarters 
of the Allied Sovereigns. My brother 
and Mr. Stewart alone remained with 
Lady Castlereagh. 

Monday, lotk. — We took leave of 
our kind host and hostess, and removed 
to Lord Clancarty's house, as he would 
not hear of Lady Castlereagh's going to 
a lodging. The Dowager Princess and 
her daughter, the Princess of Brunswick, 
widow of the eldest brother of the 
present Duke, arrived in the morning 
from Berlin and were well received. 



38 Reminiscences of 1814. 

Tuesday, \ith. — We all dined at the 
Prince's. Nothing could be more civil 
and kind than the manner in which 
the Princesses received us. The reign- 
ing Princess was rather tall, of a slight 
make, had a charming countenance, and 
was altogether most graceful, pleas- 
ing, and interesting in her appearance : 
she was, at the time I saw her, in 
her thirty-ninth or fortieth year, and 
possessed the remains of beauty, which 
seemed to have been impaired more by 
sorrow than by time. Her dress, which 
resembled that of many of Rubens' 
beauties, became , her, and strongly con- 
trasted with the high Chinese head- 
dresses and excessively short waists 
uniformly worn at the Hague, which were 
most preposterous and disfiguring both to 
face and figure. The Princess Dowager 



i8i4. A Septuagenarian. 39 

was perhaps tant soit peu hautaine in 
her general manner, but appeared, and 
was by all accounts, a superior and very 
agreeable person. The palace was con- 
verted by the French into a hospital. 

There appeared to be little general 
society at the Hague, which was not to 
be wondered at, for during the last nine- 
teen years, those attached to the family 
of Orange and to the Old Constitution, 
not wishing to admit the French into 
their parties, and not daring to exclude 
them, shut up their houses and saw 
none but particular friends. Many, too, 
were so much impoverished by the ra- 
pacity of their new masters, that it was 
no longer in their power to live with 
their former state. I have spoken with 
many about King Louis and the Reine 



40 Reminiscences of 1814. 

Hortense. The former was liked per- 
sonally ; not so the latter-^not a word 
did I ever hear in her favour. 

T-uesday, iStk. — The. Hereditary- 
Prince dined with Lord Clancarty. In 
the evening Lady Castlereagh and I 
went to a Court held by the Princess 
for ladies only. This was H. S. H.'s first 
Court, and it was the anniversary of 
the day on which, nineteen years before, 
she had been obliged to fly from Hol- 
land. Lady Clancarty and her children 
arrived, to the great joy of Lord Clan- 
carty, who had been uneasy about them. 

Lady Castlereagh, Lord Bradford, 
Mr. Stewart and I made a pleasant 
excursion of three days to Amsterdam. 



I.8I4. A Septuagenarian. 41 

On our return to the Hague we found 
that the society at Lord Clancarty's had 
been increased by the arrival of Mr. 
R. Gordon (a brother of Lord Aberdeen) 
and Mr. W. Temple (Lord Palmerston's 
brother), the former as secretary to the 
Embassy, and the latter as an attach^. 
The other gentlemen of the Embassy, 
whose names I have omitted to mention, 
were Mr. Hopner, Mr. Gunning (son of 
Sir Robert Gunning), and Mr. St. George. 
Mr. G. Chad, who stayed some time at 
the Hague, was a pleasant addition to 
our society. 

26tk. — We dined at Court and after- 
wards went to a tkd given by Madame 
Hogendorp, wife of the minister for 
foreign affairs. This was the first large 
party I had been at in Holland, and it 



42 Reminiscences of 1814. 

gave me no wish for a second. In the be- 
ginning of the evening the ladies sat on 
chairs placed against the wall all round the 
room, while the gentlemen stood in the 
centre. This agreeable state of things 
continued till the card-tables, to the num- 
ber of twenty-six, were brought, when 
every creature, young and old, played at 
whist! I,who just knew the game enough 
to follow suit, had the pleasure of being 
placed at a table with three gentlemen I 
had never seen before, and to add to the 
pleasure, the one I played with seemed 
very cross ; but good luck was on our 
side, and we won. Nothing could well 
be more stupid, and most glad was I 
when the party came to an end. 

2%th. — The Duke of Clarence and 
M. le Comte d'ArtoIs arrived at the 



i8i4. A Septuagenarian. 43 

Hague, the former for Sir Thomas 
Graham's army, the latter from England 
on his way to the head-quarters of the 
Allied armies. 

2()ik. — We dined at Court to meet 
their Royal Highnesses. 

2,oik. — The Duke of Clarence, the He- 
reditary Prince, and a large party dined 
at Lord Clancarty's. Monsieur had pro- 
ceeded on his journey in the morning. 

Monday, February ist. — The Duke of 
Clarence left the Hague for Sir Thomas 
Graham's army. The Prince and Princess 
and the Hereditary Prince dined at Lord 
Clancarty's. 

2,rd. — Lady Castlereagh and I drove 
to Delft, accompanied by the Hereditary 
Prince, who wished to be incognito, but 
imfortunately he was instantly recog- 



44 Reminiscences of 1814- 

nised, and a crowd followed us wherever 
we went, huzzaing and repeating the 
national cry of Orange Boven. In the 
church called the Great Church is a 
beautiful tomb to William I., who was 
assassinated in this town. 

In the old Stadthouse, then turned into 
barracks, we were shown the staircase 
on which he was standing when he was 
killed, and the holes the bullets made in 
the walls. The Prince returned with us, 
and dined with Lord Clancarty. In the 
evening we went to a tM at the Princess 
Dowager's, which was much pleasanter 
than that at Madame Hogendorp's, as no 
one was obliged to play at whist unless 
they liked it. Lady Castlereagh, Lady 
Clancarty, with myself and a few others, 
sat round a table with the Princesses, 



i8i4. A Septuagenarian. 45 

who employed us in making what they 
were pleased to call lint for the soldiers, 
but which I hope was never used for 
that purpose. 

Friday, 6tk. — The Dowager Princess, 
the Princess of Brunswick, and the He- 
reditary Prince dined at the Embassy. 
After the Princesses were gone, the 
Prince made us all dance, which we did 
most merrily for several hours. It would 
b^ impossible to be more pleasing, good- 
humoured, and unaffected than this young 
Prince, and from having lived five or six 
years in England, or from serving with 
our army in the Peninsula, he seemed 
to be attached to everything English ; 
whenever possible, he wore the English 
uniform, and when in full dress, he never 
appeared without the Peninsular clasps. 



46 Reminiscences of 1814. 

Most interesting was the week that 
followed, for the important intelligence 
arrived of the defeat of the French on 
their own ground, when commanded by 
Napoleon, as well as of the further ad- 
vance of the Allied armies into France. 

\2th. — The Hereditary Prince dined 
at Lord Clancarty's. A little before 
nine we went to a dance at Court, which 
I had the honour of beginning with 
H.S.H. 

Friday, 18/A — Lady Castlereagh and 
I dined with the Princess Dowager. 
The Hereditary Prince and M. Fagel 
were the only guests invited besides 
ourselves. The Prince took leave of us 
in the evening, as he was going to set 
out early next morning on a tour through 
the provinces. 



■i8i4- A Septuagenarian. 47 

Saturday, igtk. — Valletort, with Mr. 
Temple and Mr. Stewart, went to see the 
surrender of Gorinchem by the French 
to the alHed Dutch and Prussian troops. 
Lady Castlereagh had intended to be of 
the party, but she was dissuaded from it 
by the terrible accounts we received of 
the state of the roads and ferries, being 
rendered almost impassable by the ice. 

22nd. — Lady Christine de Reede gave 
a dance, at which were the three Prin- 
cesses, and the Hereditary Prince of 
Nassau Wiburg, afterwards Grand Duke 
of Nassau. 

March. — On the 8th, Sir Thomas 
Graham (afterwards Lord Lynedoch) 
made his- disastrous attempt upon the 
fortress of Bergen-op-Zoom by storm. 
Our troops were repulsed, and the loss 



48 Reminiscences of 1814.' 

of life was fearful. The accounts that 
reached us were most sad. 



The Duke of Clarence returned for a 
short time to the Hague ; and the Grand 
Duchess Catherine, widow of the Duke 
of Oldenbourg and sister of the Emperor 
Alexander, came on a visit of a few days 
to the Prince and Princess on her way 
to England. 

We saw Her Imperial Highness at a 
dinner at Court, and were much struck 
with her manners and appearance, which 
were dignified and graceful. She looked 
clever also, and if all that has since been 
reported be true, she certainly succeeded 
in the object which she had in view in 
going to England. 

The Hereditary Prince returned, and 



i8i4. A Septuagenarian. 49 

there were several balls at Court and in 
private houses. 

» * * «■ » * 

2<^th. — Prince Frederick, the young- 
est son of the Prince, arrived from 
Bulow's army. In the evening there 
was a dance at the Princess Dowager's, 
and I had the honour of dancing with 
Prince Frederick, who, having travelled 
all night, was so sleepy that he could 
with difficulty keep his eyes open. 

* » » * * ♦ , 

Sunday, 2'jth. — We left for Amster- 
dam to be present at the inauguration 
of the Prince, at the acceptance of the 
New Constitution, and the dinners and 
fetes that were to take place on the 
occasion. The ice, with which we had 
found all the canals covered when we 
arrived in Holland, was now disappear- 



50 Reminiscences of 1814. 

ing, and Lady Castlereagh and most 
of the party chose to go by the canals 
in a treckschuyt to Amsterdam ; but 
I preferred going with Lord and Lady 
Clancarty in their carriage. On enter- 
ing Amsterdam, and in our progress 
through it, Lord Clancarty was loudly 
cheered. A good house in one of the 
best streets had been prepared for his 
reception. , The party by water did not 
arrive till late in the evening, having 
met with impediments from the ice, 
which still remained on some parts of 
the canal. 

Monday, 2?>th. — In the evening the 
Court made their first appearance in 
public at the Dutch theatre, which was 
crowded to excess, and their reception 
must have been most gratifying to 
them. In every pause in the per- 



i8i4. A Septuagenarian. 51 

formance, the house rang with thunders 
of applause. Between the acts, the 
Dutch national air, * Orange Boven ' 
and our ' God save the King' alternated, 
and I hardly know which tune created 
the greatest enthusiasm. During the 
former, the audience turned to the 
Prince's box, and applauded by beating 
time with their hands and feet ; during 
the latter they turned to Lord Clancarty's. 
The first piece being a translation into 
Dutch of ' Athalie,' I could in a great 
measure follow it. The part of Athalie 
was well played by an actress somewhat 
resembling Mrs. Siddons in face and 
person. 

Tuesday, 29//^. — A dinner at Court 
in the grande salle of the Stadthouse. 
There were present upwards of two hun- 
dred notables, besides the attendants 



5 2 Reminiscences of 1814. 

of the Court, the ministers, and others 
who were invited, in all upwards of three 
hundred persons. The tables formed 
three sides of an oblong, and from the 
top of it, where I sat by the Hereditary- 
Prince of Nassau, the coup- a' ceil was 
magnificent. 

I must add that Lady Castlereagh, 
Lady Clancarty and I, were the only 
ladies besides the Princesses and their 
ladies in waiting. An allusion made by 
the Prince to the marriage in contempla- 
tion between the Hereditary Prince and 
our Princess Charlotte was received with 
vociferous acclamations. 

After dinner the Princes and Princesses 
went to the French theatre, and so did 
we. The reception was as gratifying as 
that on the previous evening at the Dutch 
theatre. 



i8i4. A Septuagenarian. 53 

Wednesday, ■^oik. — This was the day- 
appointed for the ceremony of the in- 
auguration of the Prince, and the ac- 
ceptance of the New Constitution in the 
great Church of Amsterdam, whither we 
repaired early in the. morning. Atone 
end of the church was placed a throne 
for the Prince, on each side of which, but 
a step lower, were chairs for the Prince's 
two sons, and behind them stood the 
Prince's attendants. Turning the angle 
on the right were chairs for the three 
Princesses : behind them were seated the 
ladies of the Court, and opposite to them 
were the places appropriated to the 
English and other foreigners. 

The six hundred notables were ranged 
on benches facing the throne, and all 
around were erected galleries for the 
town's people and other spectators. The 



54 Reminiscences of 1814- 

Princes and Princesses having taken their 
seats, the president of the notables ad- 
dressed the Prince in a speech which, 
from the tears of the Princesses, I pre- 
sumed was affecting, but of which I did 
not understand one word, it being de- 
livered in Dutch. The Prince then 
made a reply in the same language, and 
concluded by taking the oath for main- 
taining the Constitution now established ; 
which he did in a manly yet feeling 
manner. This was followed by the 
Hereditary Prince and his brother taking 
the oath of allegiance. The former was 
so overcome by his feelings, he could 
scarcely speak. Indeed, this part of the 
ceremony was both interesting and 
affecting. The whole concluded with a 
Dutch sermon of considerable length, 
which seemed to weary even those who 



i8i4. A Septuagenarian. 55 

understood it. There was another dinner 
at Court, to which some of our party- 
went, but from which I excused myself 
on account of fatigue. In the evening 
we all went to the French play. At 
night the town was illuminated, and the 
effect was good from the reflection of the 
lights in the canals. 

We had agreed to make an excursion 
to the much talked-of village of Broek 
in North Holland. Accordingly, Lady 
Castlereagh, the Ladies Trench, myself, 
and some of the gentlemen of our party, 
set off early with the intention of re- 
turning by three o'clock in time for the 
dinner at Court. 

The excursion was most pleasant, but 
though we made it as short as possible, 
the slowness of the towing along the 
canals, and the sailing across a small 



56 Reminiscences of 1814. 

arm of the Zuyder-Zee, took so much 
time, that we did not reach Amsterdam 
till the Prince's dinner hour was passed. 
To make up as much as we could for this 
seeming negligence and want of respect, 
we hurried our dinner and toilettes, and 
hastened to a great concert given to 
their Serene Highnesses, where we 
arrived in good time, and offered our 
apologies, which 'were most kindly and 
good-humouredly received. It was an 
amateur concert, and performed in the 
concert room of the Felix Mentis. 

Friday, April 1st. — We went at ten 
o'clock to the Admiralty to see the 
launch of a sloop of war. It was, I believe, 
a novel sight to the Princesses and many 
of those present, and they were therefore 
highly gratified by it, but to me, who 
had seen first-rate men-of-war launched 



i8i4. A Septuagenarian. 57 

at Plymouth, the interest was small, and 
unfortunately the gaiety of the scene was 
marred by the rain, which fell incessantly 
the whole morning. After the launch we 
returned to the Admiralty house, where 
a breakfast was prepared. N otwithstand- 
ing the rain, the Princes and Princesses, 
Lord and Lady Clancarty, their daughters 
and myself, as soon as the repast was 
finished, were rowed round the vessels 
in the harbour. These vessels were 
small in number, and still smaller in size, 
and our aquatic excursion in the rain to 
see them struck me as so ridiculous, 
that I could with difficulty restrain a 
propensity to laughter, which was in- 
creased by the significant looks of the 
Hereditary Prince, who appeared as 
much amused as myself In the even- 
ing there was -a ball given to the Prince 



SS Reminiscences of 1814. 

by the citizens, in a hospital or asylum 
for old women. Like all balls of the 
kind, it was crowded, hot, and disagree- 
able. So ended the ceremonies and 
fetes of the inauguration. 

Saturday, 2nd. — The Princes and 
Princesses left Amsterdam and returned 
to the Hague ; so, too, did Lord Clan- 
carty, with some of the gentlemen of the 
embassy ; but Lady Clancarty, Lady 
Castlereagh, and the rest of the party, 
determined to stay a day or two longer ; 
and most pleasantly did those days 
pass. 

On the 5th, we got into a treck-^ 
schuyt, which was brought almost as 
close to the door of the house as a 
carriage is to one in Portland Place, and 
at eleven o'clock left Amsterdam. 

At Haarlem, we dined and heard the 



1 8 14. A Septuagenarian. 59 

famous organ, which exceeded my ex- 
pectations. 

Travelling on the canals is slow work, 
and we did not arrive at the Hague till 
four o'clock in the morning. Intelligence 
came of the entrance of the Allied armies 
into Paris on the 31st of March, and 
all were in a state of excitement. My 
brother, Valletort, set off immediately for 
Paris. Lady Castlereagh and I began 
to wonder what would now be our desti- 
nation. This was settled on Monday, 
the I ith, when a messenger arrived who 
had been sent by Lord Castlereagh to 
conduct us to Paris. But one day inter- 
vened between the arrival of the mes- 
senger and our departure from the 
Hague, which was passed in making the 
necessary preparations, and in taking 
leave of our Dutch friends, most of 



6o Reminiscences of 1814. 

whom called upon us in the evening, 
and from many of whom I parted with 
regret — a regret which they deserved by 
their amiable qualities, and by their uni- 
form kindness and attention to me. As 
to Lord and Lady Clancarty, they treated 
me like a petted child — I had but to 
express a wish and it was gratified, and 
I shall always look back to those four 
months passed at the Hague as some of 
the happiest of my younger days. Lady 
Clancarty agreed to accompany us, with 
her two eldest daughters, as far as 
Brussels, where we were to wait for 
further instructions from Lord Castle- 
reagh. 

Having taken an affectionate farewell 
of Lord Clancarty, we left the Hague 
on the 1 3th of April. At Rotterdam, a 
handsome town, we were detained a 



i8i4. A Septuagenarian. 6i 

couple of hours for horses, which was 
vexatious, as we had to cross three 
ferries, and wished to reach Breda that 
night. As far as Rotterdam the roads 
were good, but beyond this they altered 
for the worse, and were, besides, rather 
formidable to English travellers, being 
generally at the top of a high and narrow 
embankment, from which the postilion, 
driving four horses, would suddenly 
descend at a gallop in a perpendicular 
direction, without considering the weight 
of an English coach with luggage. 

After passing through Dort, we soon 
arrived at the last ferry, which was about 
three miles across. As there was little 
space on board the vessel which con- 
veyed the carriages. Lady Castlereagh 
and Lady Clancarty preferred going in 
a small boat, rowed by one man. The 



62 Reminiscences of 1814- 

day was closing in fast upon us, and 
before we reached the village of Lage 
Swallisee it was completely dark. Lady 
Castlereagh and Lady Clancarty, there- 
fore, determined not to attempt to get to 
Breda (where the gates would be shut) 
if we could find any tolerable accommo- 
dation at the small inn in the village. 
Fortunately none of our party chose to 
make difficulties, and the people were 
civil and clean ; so, having got a good 
supper, -with the aid of Lady Castle- 
reagh's cook, we ladies clambered up a 
ladder into a sort of loft, and slept very 
comfortably in some little wooden beds, 
built into the wall, and resembling pigeon 
holes, a spare one being filled with straw 
and having a hole in it, obviously for the 
admission of chickens. 

The next morning by six o'clock we 



i8i4. A Septuagenarian. 63 

were on the move, and by ten o'clock 

reached Breda, where we breakfasted. 

Following the advice of Lord Clan- 

carty, Lady Castlereagh despatched Mr. 

Stewart to the Hereditary Prince (whose 

head-quarters were at Breda) to enquire 

of H.S.H. which would be the safest 

road for us to take to Brussels, as some 

of the towns were still in the hands of 

! 
the French, and a carriage had been i 

fired upon and stopped not long since. 

H.S.H. came immediately to see us, 

and having most good-naturedly settled 

everything for us, he walked with us to the ! 

church to see a monument erected to one { 

of his ancestors, and then to a convent ' 

i 

of nuns, who appeared to live most com- | 
fortably in small houses built round a 
square, in the centre of which was a 
garden, divided into compartments, for 



64 Reminiscences of 1814. 

each nun to have her own piece of 
ground to cultivate as she liked. The 
priest took us into the chapel, which was 
fitted up in a paltry manner with images, 
relics, and artificial flowers, and after- 
wards to the house of the abbess, a 
feeble old woman, scarcely able to 
stand. 

It was quite affecting to see the poor 
creature's emotion when she heard that 
the Prince was amongst us. She was 
firmly attached to the family of. Orange, 
for whose return she had never ceased 
to pray daily for the last nineteen years ; 
and the first sight of the Prince over- 
came her ; she seized his hand, kissed it, 
and amidst her sobs prayed Heaven to 
bless him ! The Prince returned with 
us to the inn, and did not leave us till 
he had put us into our carriages. 



i8i4. A Septuagenarian. 65 

And thus we parted, with little hope 
of again meeting on the intimate, and, I 
may say, friendly terms of the last four 
months ; and it was with real regret that 
we did so, for his unaffected good nature, 
his gaiety, and kindness, had endeared 
him to us all. Madame de Stael said 
very truly, 'C'est un triste plaisir que 
celui de voyager.' One forms friend- 
ships which are broken off and for the 
most part never renewed ! 

The same horses were to take us to 
Leer, a distance of forty miles. Our 
progress was rendered excessively slow 
by the terrible state of the roads, occa- 
sioned partly by the weather, and partly 
by the recent passage of troops. While 
the horses were having some water, we 
got out of the carriage, and walked 
along a dreary heath and sat down under 



66 Reminiscences of 1814. 

a clump of firs till the carriage came up 
to us. It was indeed a melancholy spot : 
traces of fighting still visible in the 
remains of dead horses, the ground fresh 
where the dead had been buried, and the 
air not yet purified from the dreadful 
smell arising from so many slain. We 
passed through the small towns, or rather 
villages, of Meer, Ostmalle, and Soursel, 
all showing the ravages of war, especially 
the last, where there had been fighting 
not six weeks before, the traces of which 
were very visible in the broken windows, 
the shattered state of many houses, the 
dismantled church, which had been con- 
verted into a stable, and the desolate 
appearance of the whole village. We 
saw many sick or wounded soldiers 
(apparently French) lying on heaps of 
straw, or dragging on their weary steps ! 



i8i4. A Septuagenarian. 6^ 

The roads continued to become, if 
possible, worse and worse, which was the 
more disagreeable, as we were benighted 
shortly after we left Soursel. In some 
places the servants were obliged to sup- 
port the carriage to prevent its upsetting, 
and we went the whole way at a foot's 
pace, so that we did not arrive at Leer 
till four o'clock in the morning, having 
been sixteen hours performing a journey 
of only forty miles. The fatigue of this 
tedious travelling was not lessened by the 
carriage arrangements, which were cer- 
tainly not luxurious. A pile of boxes 
divided the floor in two parts. My 
vis a vis was Mr. Stewart, six feet high, 
with legs in proportion, and sharing the 
small space with us was Lady Castle- 
reagh's fat bulldog, poor dear Venom — 
she was a great pet, but her fat and 



68 Reminiscences of 1814. 

heavy body was not exactly comfortable 
on one's feet. To avoid that, I screwed 
them under the step till I got cramped, 
when a bright thought struck me, and I 
said, ' Please, Alick, hang your legs out 
of the window, that I may stretch mine.' 
Roaring with laughter, he did what I 
asked, and the effect would have been 
ludicrous enough to passers by, but there 
were no passers by— we had the dreary 
road to ourselves. We found the inns 
in Leer filled with troops, for whose ser- 
vice all the horses were engaged. All, 
therefore, that we could do was to wait 
a couple of hours while our horses were 
baiting and resting, and to try to get 
something to eat for ourselves, as nothing 
had passed our mouths since our break- 
fast at Breda ; with some difficulty we 
succeeded in this, and at last procured 



i8i4. A Septuagenarian. 69 

some bad cheese, black bread, stale eggs, 
and tea which had never seen China — 
not a very tempting repast even to 
hungry travellers, and the large dismal 
room, with its dirty floor and table, 
lighted up by one tallow candle, and the 
atmosphere redolent of tobacco, and 
stuffy from the number of soldiers who 
had spent their evening in it, was not 
more pleasing than the fare. The 
wretched hard rush-bottomed chairs 
offered no rest, so we preferred the fresh 
air, and walked about the grande place, 
occasionally challenged by a sentinel. 
The carriages being at length ready, we 
proceeded on to Malines, which we 
reached between seven and eight 
o'clock. 

Lady Castlereagh, one of the Ladies 
Trench, and Mr. Stewart, immediately 



70 Reminiscences of 1814. 

went to bed. Though I had not slept 
at all, I was much too excited to follow 
their example ; neither did Lady Clan- 
carty or her other daughter; but, after 
eating a breakfast, of which we were 
much in need, we refreshed ourselves 
by lying down for a short time, and 
dressing. Here, too, there was some 
difficulty in getting horses, and being, 
perhaps, the most energetic of the party, 
I bestirred myself to send a message to 
the governor, or commanding officer, to 
give an order that they might be pro-, 
vided for us. On running up stairs after 
arranging this matter, I came upon Col. 
Loftus, of the Guards, to the equal sur- 
prise of both at meeting so unexpectedly 
then and there. 

While waiting for the horses. Lady 
Clancarty, Lady L. Trench and I walked 



i8i4. A Septuagenarian. 71 

about the town, and went into one of 
the churches, which was very handsome 
and ornamented with some tolerable 
paintings. On our return to the inn, 
finding the horses ready, and the sleepers 
still slumbering, we three determined to 
start in Lady Clancarty's carriage, leav- 
ing the others to follow when they 
awoke. The road from Malines to 
Brussels is excellent, and, after passing 
Vilvorde, runs by the side of a number 
of fine country-seats, and, amongst 
others, the Palais de Laeken, lately the 
property of the Empress Josephine. We 
arrived at Brussels in the middle of the 
day, and were immediately visited by 
Captain Wood, an aide-de-camp of Sir C. 
Stewart, by whom he had been sent to 
escort Lady Castlereagh to Paris. 

We should naturally have liked to 



72 Reminiscences of 1814. 

proceed on our journey without delay, 
but as Lady Clancarty had accompanied 
us in the hope of spending a few days 
with us at Brussels, Lady Castlereagh 
settled to remain there one whole day, 
which we spent very pleasantly, walking 
about, seeing the churches, and in the 
evening going to the theatre. Six 
thousand Swedes, of Bernadotte's army, 
were quartered in Brussels, and a re- 
markably fine soldier-like set of men 
they appeared to be. One of the officers 
was, I presume, troubled with curiosity 
to see what sort of people English- 
women were, for, when sitting together, 
the door opened, and there stood a tall 
young officer, in full uniform. Our five 
pairs of eyes were fixed on him in 
astonishment, and his pair quietly sur- 
veyed us all. He then made a bow. 



i8i4. A SeptuagenaHan. 73 

and disappeared, not a word having been 
spoken. Certainly our eyes had the 
best of it, for he was very handsome, 
while we could not boast of much loveli- 
ness, and, jaded by a long journey, were 
not looking by any means brilliant in 
our travelling dresses. On April 17, 
after taking an affectionate leave of Lady 
Clancarty and her daughters, we pro- 
ceeded on our journey to Paris. At 
Mons we stopped for an early dinner, 
and Lady Castlereagh was visited by 
the mayor, who came to offer her the 
use of his house. At Valenciennes, a 
fortified town, we were stopped for our 
passports to be examined, and at Cam- 
bray, where we arrived in the middle of 
the night, we we're delayed an hour 
while they woke the governor for the 
same purpose. While thus waiting, we 



74 Reminiscences of iSm- 

were amused at seeing, by the light of 
the lamp at the gate, that the sentinel's 
Republican tricoloured cockade had been 
economically and speedily changed into 
the Bourbon white cockade, by the 
simple process of a slight coat of white 
paint, through which the three colours 
were distinctly visible. 

After passing Peronne, we came to 
Pont St. Mayence, and were obliged to 
get out of the carriage, as it could not 
go over the bridge, which had a short 
time before been partially blown up by 
order of Bonaparte, when pressed hard 
by the Allies. As we stood on the 
bridge watching the carriage crossing in 
a boat, we were surrounded by numbers 
of the inhabitants, and entered into con- 
versation with them. They told us that 
many had lost their lives by the explo- 



i8i4- A Septuagenarian. 75 

sion, even some who had sought safety 
on a hill a little distant from the bridge. 
They spoke with great bitterness of 
Bonaparte, and of the conduct of his 
army, who took from them everything 
they wanted without payment, and tore 
off the doors of their houses for fuel. 
This day and night travelling made me 
again appeal to Mr. Stewart for the leg- 
hanging-out-of-window relief, much, I 
fancy, to the amusement of Captain 
Wood. Late in the evening of the 1 8th 
we entered Paris, much fatigued by our 
long journey, but we did not think of 
fatigue in the joyful meeting with Lord 
Castlereagh. 

We found him established in the hdtel 
of the Ministre des Finances, which, 
though not by any means a large one 
for Paris, was yet of sufiEcient size to 



76 Reminiscences of 1814. 

lodge all the mission, and was con- 
veniently situated in the Rue Neuve des 
Capucines, at a short distance from the 
Tuileries and Boulevards.* 



The morning after our arrival, Valle- 
tort and Lord Bradford came to see us, 
and in the evening we went to the Grand 
Opdra. 

Lady Castlereagh had been in Paris 
only a few days when she was ho- 
noured by a visit from the Emperor 
Alexander. He talked almost inces- 
santly, which took off a little of the gine 
of such a visit, there being no one present 
but the Emperor, Lady Castlereagh, and 
myself He spoke, I recollect, of his 
march to Paris, and of the reasons that 

* Here ends the Diary. 



i8i4. A Septuagenarian. 77 

had made him take that bold measure, 
notwithstanding the fears of many of his 
generals. This subject led him next to 
describe the different sorts of courage 
— ' Le courage moral, et le courage 
physique,' which he did in rather a 
pedantic manner, evidently intending to 
impress upon our minds that he possessed 
them both. He was very civil and cour- 
teous, and a handsome man, with fair 
complexion, but without really good fea- 
tures. He had little grace or ease in his 
movements, in consequence, I supposed, 
of the make of his uniform, which was 
padded on the chest and shoulders, 
and so tight round the waist and the 
arm-holes, that he could not stand up- 
right, and his arms hung straight, and 
did not touch his body. 

The King of Prussia, who was Lady 



78 Reminiscences of 1814. 

Castlereagh's next royal visitor, I con- 
fess pleased me more. Though neither 
so handsome, or apparently so polished 
in manner as the more brilliant Emperor, 
he had a fine military figure, and there 
was a calmness and shade of melancholy 
in his countenance, and a simplicity and 
bonhomie (if I may be allowed to call it 
so) in his deportment which interested 
me. 

His two sons * and his nephew f. 
Prince Frederick, with whom I had the 
honour of becoming well acquainted, 
were very good-humoured and pleasing 
young men. I saw them first at a ball 
given by La Mardchale Ney to the 
Emperor of Russia. 

* The late and the present King of Prussia, 
t Prince Frederick, son of the late Queen of Han- 
over by her first husband, Prince Louis of Prussia. 



i8i4. A Septuagenarian. 79 

Bonaparte was still at Fontainebleau 
when we came to Paris, and Lord Castle- 
reagh had daily reports from Sir Niel 
Campbell (the English officer appointed 
to attend him to Elba) of his conduct 
while there, and on his journey to 
Cannes. All his courage and nerve 
seemed to have forsaken him, so much 
so that in one part, where he believed 
the inhabitants were Bourbonists, he 
actually rode as courier ahead of his own 
carriage, with a round livery hat and 
white cockade on his head ! 

We drove one morning to Mont- 
martre and to Belleville, where the last 
fierce struggle took place before the 
Allies entered Paris. The day was 
brilliant, the atmosphere looked clear 
and pure, but as we walked along, dread- 



8o Reminiscences of 1814. 

ful exhalations arose from the dead, 
buried all around us, and even beneath 
our feet! What strange people the 
French are ! On a house sufficiently 
distant for safety from the battle field 
there was still an affiche, stating — ' Id 
on voit la bataille pour deux sous!' If 
London had been besieged, would any 
Englishman have thought of turning a 
penny in this way ? 

Before the arrival of the Kmg,Afonsieur 
held an evening Court at the Tuileries, 
which Lady Castlereagh and I attended. 
His Royal Highness spoke with feel- 
ing and gratitude of the reception the 
King and Madame la Duchesse d'An- 
gouleme had met with in London, both 
from the Prince Regent and the people 
— an account of which he had received 
from Madame, who observed in her 



1 8 14. A Septuagenarian. 8i 

letter that she thought it could scarcely 
be surpassed in Paris ; and indeed I 
much doubt whether it was, at least in 
sincerity. There was certainly every 
appearance of joy, and the air resounded 
with the cries of ' Vive le roi! ' ' Vivent les 
Bourbons !' but one could not imagine 
that the old soldiers of Bonaparte — and 
every man, even the drivers oi fiacres, 
had been soldiers — really felt much joy 
on the occasion. It was on May 3 that 
the King made his entry into Paris. 
The procession went first to Notre 
Dame, where High Mass and Te Deum 
were performed, and thence proceeded 
to the Tuileries, passing over the spot 
where the unfortunate Louis XVI., his 
ill-fated Queen, and innocent sister, fell 
victims to the revolutionary tigers ! 
What must have been the Duchesse 



8? Reminiscences of 1814- 

d'Angoul^me's feelings on thus return- 
ing to the scenes of such sad memories ! 
Poor woman ! Her grave countenance, 
where no joy or elation was visible, 
proved that her thoughts dwelt more on 
the past than the present ! 

But to others this present was a pretty 
one, and thoroughly French. The Car- 
rousel was filled with soldiers, with bands 
playing. The royal carriage moved at a 
foot's pace, and before it were troops of 
young ladies, in white ball-dresses, de- 
corated, as well as their heads, with 
H.eurs de lys, of which they held large 
bunches in their hands, strewing them 
as they went. All this (singularly 
enough) I saw from the identical window 
from which, in the year 1802, I had seen 
Bonaparte, as First Consul, reviewing his 
troops ! When all was over, we had to 



1 8 14- A Septuagenarian. 83 

cross the Place du Carrousel on foot to 
get to our carriage, and in so doing, 
passed through the Vieille Garde, who 
did not look amiably upon us. The 
King and Madame soon afterwards held 
each an evening Court for ladies — the 
King in the great apartment up stairs, 
and Madame in the rez de chaussSe. 

Lady Gastlereagh, as an ambassador's 
wife, was received separately, so I passed 
with Lady Lansdowne and Lady Ossul- 
ston. The presentation to the King was 
rather formidable ; for His Majesty, Mon- 
sieur, and the Dues d'Angoul^me and 
de Berri, surrounded by the officers of 
State, were all placed at one end of the 
room, into which, having entered by a 
door at the same end, we had to walk 
along the three other sides, one lady 
following the other, and considerably 



84 Reminiscences of 1814. 

parted by our long trains ; so when at 
last I found myself opposite the King, 
&c., I felt so nervous that I had only 
enough wits left to make my reverences, 
but did not hear what was said to me by 
Monsieur and the Due de Berri, both of 
whom I had known in English society. 
■We then descended to Madame d'An- 
goul^me's reception, which, from being 
in a smaller room, was much less 
awful. 

The King and Madame appeared in 
state at several of the theatres, and we 
went to see them at the Fran9ais. The 
play was, I think, ' Antigone,' in which 
there were many passages which had 
rapport with the relative position of the 
King and Madame, all of which were 
taken up by the audience, and vocife- 



i8i4. A Septuagenarian. 85 

rously applauded. But all this applause, 
instead of exciting, was painful to me, as 
I looked on the poor Duchess's sad face. 
It used to put me out of patience to hear 
the heartless observations made upon 
her — ' Elle est maussade ; elle n'a pas de 
grdce; elle est mat mise ' (the worst fault 
in a Frenchwoman's eyes) ; &c., &c. 
Did they imagine she could forget all 
the horrors she had gone through in the 
Temple in her youth, ending with soli- 
tary confinement there ? And did they 
think that such intense misery would 
cease to leave its impression on her 
countenance and manners, especially in 
the place where §he had thus suffered ? 
Poor, poor woman, when I looked at her 
I could have wept ! 

****** 
Another interesting sight was the 



86 Reminiscences of 1814. 

opening of the Chambers by Louis 
XVIII. He was attended by the great 
officers of the Court, and accompanied 
by Monsieur and his two sons, and the 
old Prince de Condd, father of the Due 
de Bourbon, and grandfather of the 
murdered Due d'Enghien. The poor 
Prince was so feeble that he was obliged 
to be supported on each side as he tot- 
tered across the floor of the Chambers. 

The procession, sooth to say, was not 
a brilliant one, or likely to suit the love 
of theatrical display or the vanity of the 
Parisians. The King, though his coun- 
tenance was handsome and intelligent, 
was unwieldy from his size and ungrace- 
ful in his movements : the two younger 
Princes were decidedly insignificant and 
mean-looking, so that their father. Mon- 
sieur, who had been a very handsome 



i8i4. A Septuagenarian. 87 

man, and still had an air tres-distingii^, 
was the only one who became the cos- 
tume worn by them on the occasion, 
viz. : — A mantle of blue satin, and a 
ckapeau a la Henri IV, with white 
feathers. To the others it was, to say 
the least, very trying. After the King 
and the royal family had left, we re- 
mained a little longer, and were much 
amused at the contrast between our 
House of Commons and the Chambre 
des Ddputds : members rushing with 
their speeches in their hands from the 
c6ti droit and the c6t4 gauche, and 
meeting in the desk from which they 
were to speak, neither choosing to give 
way to the other, and the President 
placed above them, ringing his bell for 
some time in vain. 



88 Reminiscences of 1814. 

Few things surprised me more at 
Paris than the manner in which the 
Duke (then Marquis) of Wellington was 
received on the first evening of his arrival 
there, coming, as he did, from Toulouse, 
where he had fought and won the last 
battle of the war. He had dined with 
Lord and Lady Castlereagh, and after- 
wards went to the Grand Opdra with 
Lady Castlereagh, myself, and Mr. 
Planta. The Duke was in plain clothes, 
without any decoration to attract notice, 
and sat in the back of the box ; but he 
was almost immediately recognised by 
some one in the pit, and a voice cried 
out, ' Vellington.' The cry was taken 
up by others, and at last the whole pit 
rose, and turning to the box, called out, 
' Vive Vellington I ' nor would they be 
satisfied till he stood up and bowed to 



i8i4. A Septuagenarian. 89 

them, when he was cheered and ap- 
plauded. 

At the end of the performance, on 
opening the door of the box, we found 
the passage crammed, and my poor aunt 
was nervous and frightened, and shrank 
back, but the Duke, in his short way, 
said, ' Come along,' and drew her on, 
Mr. Planta and I following. While 
doing so, I heard one man say to an- 
other, ' Mais pourquoi V applaudissez-vous 
tant ? il nous a toujours battus.' This 
was very true, and a very natural ques- 
tion ; but the answer was charming, and 
carried one back to the time of the 
preux chevaliers — ' Oui, mais il nous a 
battus en gentilhomme.' 

It was at the dinners given by Lord 
Castlereagh that I chiefly saw and had 



90 Reminiscences of 1814- 

leisure to observe those persons who 
had become famous by their exploits, 
their talents, their virtues, and their 
crimes. 

One of these dinners I shall never 
forget. There were present at it Prince 
Henry and Prince William of Prussia — 
brothers of the King (the latter handed 
me) ; and at the same table were seated 
the conquerors and the conquered — a 
Wellington, a Schwartzenberg, and a 
Blucher, by a Marmont, a Mortier, and 
a Ney. There also were the upright 
and high-minded minister and the 
crafty politician ; the loyal subject and 
the cold-blooded regicide ; a Stadion 
and a Talleyrand ; a Hardenberg and 
a Fouch^ ! 

To see men so discordant in their 
actions, their feelings, and their prin- 



i8i4. A Septuagenarian. 91 

ciples, meeting in apparent amity, and 
meeting, too, at Paris, in an English 
Minister's house, was most curious — so 
curious that I could scarcely believe it 
a reality, and that my senses did not 
deceive me. Of all those thus collected, 
Talleyrand and Fouchd were the only 
two from whom I felt myself recoil. 
They were seated opposite to me on 
each side of Lord Aberdeen, and during 
a long dinner I had time to examine 
their countenances. The former's re- 
volting person and face in some respects 
did him injustice, for the bad qualities 
were evident ; but his half-closed eyes 
and heavy countenance gave no indica- 
tion of his talents and his wit. 

Fouch6 was totally different, being 
small in stature and spare in make, with 
a narrow pinched face, and when un- 



92 Reminiscences of 1814. 

known, might have passed unnoticed ; 
on further observation, however, there 
was an expression of shrewd and decided 
cold-blooded good sense and reflection, 
without a ray of warmth of feeling, not 
even the enthusiasm of that (miscalled) 
patriotism of the dreadful days of the 
Revolution, which slurred over the atro- 
cious acts of cruelty that were attributed 
to him ; and I could fancy him giving 
his vote, ' mort sans phrase', against the 
unfortunate Louis XVI. with as much 
sang froid as he ordered his carriage to 
take him to dinner. 

Besides these dinners, which occurred 
frequently. Lady Castlereagh received, 
and had des petits soupers every night, to 
which all those she knew, both English 
and foreign, could come without invita- 
tion, and those with whom she was not 



i8i4. A Septuagenarian. 93 

previously acquainted were introduced. 
Madame de Stael was a constant guest, 
and it was an intellectual treat to listen 
to her brilliant conversation. Many of 
the Princes assembled at Paris used to 
bring themselves to these pleasant little 
parties, and amongst others came often 
Prince Leopold of Saxe-Cobourg, who 
little foresaw his future destiny ! 

One evening early, when only a few 
persons were, assembled, there entered 
three ladies we had never seen before, 
and who proved to be La Duchesse 
de Courlande {d'un certain age), very 
ladylike in her appearance ; her eldest 
daughter, La Duchesse de Sagan, good 
looking, with a pale complexion, and 
simply dressed ; and another daughter, 
Madame de P^rigord, dark, with mag- 
nificent eyes, highly rouged, and gayly 



94 Reminiscences of 1814. 

dressed in a pink gown, and roses on her 
head. 

As the Duchesse de Sagan came in, 
Prince Louis de Rohan nudged Lady 
Castlereagh with his elbow, and said, 
' C 'itait autrefois ma femme', which was 
rather a startKng announcement to 
English ears. The Duc];iesse de Cour- 
lande, de son cStS, imparted to us that 
' Ma pauvre fille (Madame de P^rigord*) 
est bien triste, elle vient de perdre son 
enfant! Why she should have thought 
it necessary to bring her rouge, her pink 
dress, her roses, and her tristesse, to call 
on Lady Castlereagh was not obvious, 
and I doubt whether Lady Castlereagh 

* Wife of a nephew of Prince Talleyrand, and after- 
wards well known in London, when, as Duchesse de 
Dino, she accompanied Prince Talleyrand, then am- 
bassador from Louis- Philippe, and did the honours of 
his house. 



i8i4. A Septuagenarian. 95 

was properly grateful to these ladies for 
their visit, for when they were gone, she 
said, ' Emma, I am afraid we live in 
very bad company.' Too true ! but we 
could not help ourselves, and got used 
to it. At a dinner at Prince Talley- 
rand's, we became acquainted with the 
Princess, whose antecedents would not 
bear very close inquiry. She was, I 
believe, either English or Scotch by 
birth, and had been known in India as 
Mrs. Grant. Where Prince Talleyrand 
fell in with her I never heard ; but she 
must have been very handsome. She 
was also very silly, so silly that Napoleon 
asked Prince Talleyrand how he could 
marry her ; to which he replied, ' Mafoi, 
sire, je nai pu trouver une plus bite.' 
With her his mind was in complete re- 
pose. When I saw her she still showed 



96 Reminiscences of 1814. 

remains of beauty, and was a quiet- 
mannered, respectable-looking pate de 
femme. The party was a mixed one, 
composed of French, Austrians, Russians, 
and English. I sat by a Russian, 
General Ouveroff, who was said to have 
been implicated in the assassination of 
the Emperor Paul. Another of the 
guests was an old, one-eyed lady, Prin- 
cess Tyskowicz, sister to Prince Ponia- 
towski, (drowned in the Elster at the 
retreat from Leipsic,) and, therefore, 
niece of the last King of Poland. She 
was remarkable for her literary attain- 
ments, which caused her society to be 
appreciated by Prince Talleyrand, whose 
house she frequented most evenings. 

We dined, besides, at only one other 
French house, that of General Dupont, 
le Tuinistre de la guerre, where we met 



1 8 14. A Septuagenarian. 97 

a number of marshals and their wives, 
amongst whom was Marshal Augereau, 
(Due de Castiglione), an old, ugly, pecu- 
liarly disagreeable and ill-looking man, 
but whose wife was many years younger, 
and quite beautiful. 

At this time was living undisturbed 
in her favourite villa of Malmaison, 
Josephine, formerly Madame Beauhar- 
nois, afterwards wife of General Bona- 
parte, le Premier Consul, with whom 
she was crowned and became the first 
Empress of the French ; and was an 
object of yet greater interest as the 
repudiated wife and the deposed Em- 
press. She sent a message to Lady 
Castlereagh to ask her to come to see 
her, and to bring me, for, strange to say, 
my mother, before she married, had been 

H 



98 Reminiscences of 1814. 

well acquainted with her as Madame 
Beauharnois, when they were both 
boarders in the Couvent de Panthemont. 
Having often heard my mother speak of 
her kindly, I looked forward with in- 
terest to this meeting, which various 
engagements obliged us to postpone for 
a week, at the end of which. Lady 
Castlereagh, Lord Lucan, his three 
daughters, and I, drove to Malmaison 
to pay our respects, and were inexpressi- 
bly shocked when, on arriving at the 
lodge, we were informed that the Em- 
press had expired that morning, after an 
illness of only two days ! 

The Emperor of Russia had called on 
her the day before, and finding her ill 
with a sore throat, or quinsey, had sent 
his doctor, but nothing could be done to 
save her. She was an amiable woman 



1814. A Septuagenarian. 99 

and much loved ; and is sincerely 
mourned. 



A few mornings after her death, Lady 
Castlereagh and I called on Madame la 
Mardchale Ney, and, being admitted, 
were dismayed at finding her seated on 
a canape in a recess at the end of the 
room, a table before . her, on which was 
2l Jlacon and a pocket-handkerchief, and 
she herself in floods of tears ! We felt 
very awkward, and were inclined to beat 
a retreat, but Madame la Mar^chale did 
not appear in the least annoyed, and 
informed us that her grief was caused 
by the loss of Josephine, who had 
brought her up, and to whom she was 
much attached. The grief was all very 
natural ; but not so, to our English 
notions, was the somewhat theatrical 



loo Reminiscences of 1814. 

display of sorrow before two persons 
almost strangers. And yet I believe 
the poor woman was really unhappy. 

It is not, I think, generally known 
that Madame Ney was the daughter of 
Madame Auguier, une des femmes of 
Marie Antoinette, and who, by her 
promptitude on the dreadful night of 
October 6, 1789, saved the Queen's life 
at Versailles. Her Majesty, worn out 
by terror and fatigue, had thrown her- 
self on her bed, the ladies remaining at 
her door. Madame Auguier, hearing 
loud shouts and musket-shots, flew to 
the outer door of the apartment, which 
she found defended against the furious 
mob by M. de Miomandre, one of the 
gardes de corps, who said, ' Save the 
Queen ! ' She locked and bolted the 
door, and rushed back to the Queen, 



i8i4. A Septuagenarian. loi 

and she and her sister, Madame Campan, 
dragged her to the King's room. Ma- 
dame Auguier and Madame Campan 
remained with the .Queen till she was 
confined in the Temple. 

We spent many mornings delightfully 
in visiting the interesting places in the 
environs of Paris ; amongst these Ver- 
sailles and St. Cloud, from their associa- 
tions, held the first place. 

The magnificent fagade of the former 
and its stately gardens carried one's 
thoughts back to the splendid age of 
Louis Quatorze — to its gallantry, its 
encouragement of men of letters, and of 
the arts, and to all those refinements 
that made his Court the most polished 
in Europe ; but the desolate appearance 
of the interior soon recalled one to the 



I02 Reminiscences of 1814. 

scenes of horror that passed there in 
latter days ; and the recollection of Louis 
le Grand faded before the misfortunes 
of the unhappy Louis XVI. ! 

Both le Grand and le Petit Trianon 
(the latter the favourite retreat of the 
unfortunate Marie Antoinette) were re- 
fitted by Bonaparte ; but St. Cloud was 
the palace he preferred. Though in 
extent and architectural beauty inferior 
to Versailles, in other respects it is much 
its superior ; the private apartments are 
cheerful and convenient, which those at 
Versailles never could have been ; the 
grounds are agreeable, and the views from 
them of the adjacent country, with Paris 
in the background, and the Seine (which 
here forms a pretty feature) in the front, 
may boast considerable beauty. It was 
in the orangerie of this his chosen 



i8i4. A Septuagenarian. 103 

residence, that Bonaparte was elected 
Premier Consul, at the very moment when, 
accused by the people of deserting his 
army in Egypt, and abandoned by the 
existing Government, his presence of 
mind forsook him, and everything would 
have been lost had not his brother 
Lucien come forward, mounted him on 
the shoulders of two grenadiers and 
forced him back into the orangerie, tell- 
ing him to ' speak.' And so the tide 
was turned. 

And now how the scene was again 
changed. When I saw it, Field-Marshal 
Prince Schwartzenberg was master of 
St. Cloud, having established his head- 
quarters there ! 

#***«■» 

The negotiations were drawing to a 
close, and we were beginning to prepare 



I04 Reminiscences of 1814- 

for our departure from Paris. Many of 
those who formed our more intimate 
society had already left it, amongst others 
my brother Valletort, Lord Bradford, 
Lord Lovaine (who became Earl of 
Beverley on the death of his father, 
and subsequently Duke of Northum- 
berland), his friend Lord Binning (the 
late Lord Haddington), &c., &c. At 
last the peace of Paris was signed, and 
on the evening of May 30 we set off on 
our return to England. We travelled 
all that night, slept the next at Mont- 
reuil, and arrived in the afternoon of the 
following day at Boulogne, where a 
frigate was in readiness to take Lord 
Castlereagh across the Channel. At 
Boulogne we found Prince Blucher, who 
was waiting for the King of Prussia ; to 
attend upon whom, as well as on the 



i8i4. A Septuagenarian. 105 

Emperor of Russia, H.R.H. the Duke 
of Clarence was lying off Boulogne in 
the ' Impregnable.' 

Lord Castlereagh waited on H.R.H. 
the next morning, and afterwards joined 
us on board the ' Nymphen,' the captain 
of which (Captain Smith) happened, 
singularly enough, to be the person 
who sent a Dutch pilot to the rescue 
of the ' Erebus,' when in some peril 
off the coast of Holland. 

Our voyage this time was most de- 
lightful, and in the afternoon of June 3 
we landed at Dover, where Lord Castle- 
reagh was received with cheers by the 
crowds assembled on the beach, who 
followed him as he walked through the 
town. We slept that night at Lord 
Castlereagh's apartments in the Castle, 
which we left the next day, June 4, as the 



io6 Reminiscences of 1814. 

salute was being fired for George III.'s 
birthday. Alas, poor King ! How his 
true English heart would have rejoiced 
and exulted at the triumphs we had 
gained and at the downfall of Bona- 
parte ! but in bodily and mental darkness 
he remained, unconscious of all around 
him. At twelve o'clock that night, after 
an absence of six months, I had the 
happiness of receiving a joyful welcome 
from my dear father, and of finding 
myself in my own home. 

A few evenings after my return, we 
had the honour of receiving a com- 
mand from the Prince Regent to rather 
a select party given by him to the 
Emperor of Russia, the King of Prussia, 
princes innumerable, and all the diplo- 
matists, generals, and others who had 



i8i4. A Septuagenarian. 107 

figured in the late events. At this 
party I well remember seeing the 
Princess Charlotte and the Hereditary- 
Prince of Orange sitting together, and 
walking about arm-in-arm, looking per- 
fectly happy and lover-like. What were 
the intrigues and influence that changed 
the Princess's feelings^ and caused her 
to break off the marriage, is a mystery 
known, I believe, to few. There were 
many rumours — many stories afloat, but 
none to be relied on, the only thing 
positive being the fact that the Prince 
was dismissed ; and I grieved for his 
mortification and disappointment. The 
last time I saw him before he left Eng- 
land was at a great ball at Devonshire 
House, when he came up, wrung my 
hand, and said, 'Good-bye, God bless 
you, Lady Emma ; I am off to-morrow.' 



io8 Reminiscences of 1814. 

Tears were in his eyes, and he appeared 
miserable ; and well he might, for under 
any circumstances such a dismissal would 
be sufficiently mortifying, but at so public 
a moment it must in every way have 
been most galling to all his feelings. 

To describe the state of London 
during the following weeks would be 
impossible, even if I wished to attempt 
it. It was one of frenzy. The peace, 
and the sovereigns and the princes, and 
Wellington, and Blucher, and Platoff, 
all coming at once, upset the sober 
mind of John Bull. Night and day, 
everybody was rushing everywhere. 
There were illuminations and fireworks, 
and a fair in Hyde Park, and frigates 
firing on the Serpentine, for the masses ; 
and going in state to the theatres, and 



i8i4, A Septuagenarian. 109 

great dinners without end, and great 
parties and balls for the great people. 
Amongst these great people was my 
Paris acquaintance, Prince Leopold of 
Saxe-Cobourg — a minor star, little no- 
ticed amid the brilliant constellations that 
surrounded him ; yet he attracted the 
notice of one whose influence changed, 
ere a year was passed, the whole 
future of his life. Princess Charlotte 
admired and liked him. Where and how 
often did she meet him ? This is another 
mystery of that eventful period. 

Was the same brain at work to pro- 
moie this marriage which it was supposed 
had exerted itself to mar the other ? 
And that intriguing brain, was it the 
Grand Duchess Catherine's, as many 
thought ? Who knows ! 



no Reminiscences of 1814. 

The Emperor of Russia, the King 
of Prussia, Lords Liverpool and Castle- 
reagh, were elected Knights of the 
Garter. When at Paris, Lord Castle- 
reagh was almost the only person o 
mark non dicori, the generality being 
covered both on the right and left with 
stars. Some one observed this, when 
another foreigner said, 'Ma foi! c'esi 
bien distinguS.' And so he had, with 
his tall figure, his handsome countenance, 
and his simple, unaffected, yet dignified 
manner, which made one feel very proud 
of him. 

I may as well mention here that when 
he first entered the House of Commons 
on his return to England, the whole 
House rose and cheered him in acknow- 
ledgment of the successful termination 
of his arduous negotiations. 



1 8 14- A Septuagenarian. 1 1 1 

The Emperor of Russia, the King 
of Prussia, and various other royal and 
distinguished persons, having, with the 
Prince Regent, attended a naval review 
at Portsmouth, they there took leave 
of H.R.H., proceeded to Dover, and 
embarked for France. 

# if- K- * » 

July I St. — The Duke of Wellington 
having received an address of thanks 
from the House of Commons, presented 
to him in Hamilton Place by a deputa- 
tion, went down to the House to return 
his thanks in person for the same. On 
his appearance at the bar, all the mem- 
bers rose and received him with en- 
thusiastic cheering. After he had, in a 
few simple words, expressed his grati- 
tude for the repeated votes of thanks, 
and the pecuniary grants bestowed upon 



112 Reminiscences of 1814- 

him, and declared his readiness to serve 
His Majesty in any way in which his 
abihties might be useful, the Speaker 
(Abbot) rose and addressed to him a 
beautiful and eloquent reply, at the end 
of which the Duke withdrew, the whole 
House rising whilst he was reconducted 
by the Serjeant from his chair to the 
door of the House. 

Ttk. — A general thanksgiving for the 
peace. The Prince Regent went in 
state, and the two Houses of Lords and 
Commons attended divine service in 
St. Paul's. 

iT)tk.- — All the London world was 
startled by hearing that the Princess 
Charlotte had, on the previous even- 
ing, left Warwick House unobserved, 
and gone off in a hackney coach to 



1 8 14. A SeptTMgenarian. 113 

the Princess of Wales, in Connaught 
Place. 

The cause of this sudden and un- 
accountable proceeding has never trans- 
pired to the world at large. ■ That it 
was perfectly unexpected and unwished 
for by the Princess of Wales, there 
seems to be little doubt. 

The Duke of York, the Duke of 
Sussex, Lord Eldon, and Mr. Brougham, 
all repaired to Connaught Place, and, 
after several hours of discussion, the 
Princess Charlotte returned to Warwick 
House. 

The Prince Regent gave a grand 
gala at Carlton House on the 21st, in 
honour of the peace ; on the 30th he 
prorogued Parliament ; and soon after- 
wards the fever of the last weeks gra- 



1 14 Reminiscences of 1815. 

dually subsided, and people resumed 
their usual habits, and betook them- 
selves for rest both of body and mind 
to the country. 

My father and I repaired to dear beau- 
tiful Mount Edgcumbe, where we lived 
for some months in pleasant intercourse 
with our neighbours ; in the autumn 
making a progress in Queen Elizabeth's 
fashion to visit our friends in the distant 
parts of the county. In November 
Lord and Lady Castlereagh went to 
Vienna, where he joined the congress of 
statesmen. 



1815. 
We left Mount Edgcumbe for London 
soon after the meeting of Parliament. 
In the first days of March came the 



iSis- A Septuagenarian. 115 

astounding news that Bonaparte had es- 
caped from Elba on February 26 ; had 
landed in France with a small army of 
Poles, Corsicans, and Elbese, and was 
marching triumphantly on to Paris ; his 
old army and most of the Marshals re- 
ceiving him everywhere with enthusiasm. 
On March 20 he entered Paris, which 
Louis XVIII. had previously left for 
Lille, attended by Marshals Berthier and 
Macdonald. 

The consternation caused by this 
event was immense — all hope of con- 
tinuance of peace was at an end, and in 
the beginning of April the Duke of 
Wellington, who was still engaged at the 
congress of Vienna, repaired to Brussels 
to take command of the English forces 
sent there. 

Lord Castlereagh had returned in 



ii6 Reminiscences of 1815. 

March, his colleagues requiring his pre- 
sence in the House of Commons. 



yune. — My father went to Mount 
Edgcumbe, and I remained, as I fre- 
quently did, with Lord and Lady Castle- 
reagh. As days passed on, news came 
of Bonaparte, at the head of a formidable 
army, being on his march to the Low 
Countries, where the Duke of Welling- 
ton, with the English, Brunswick, Bel- 
gian, and Hanoverian forces, and the 
Prussian army under Marshal Blucher 
were ready to receive him. 

Reports of battles succeeded each 
other, all equally unfounded, but on the 
19th or 20th, at an evening party at 
Lansdowne House, much sensation was 
caused by the report that a great battle 



i8is. A Septuagenarian. 117 

had certainly been fought, and that the 
intelligence had been brought, it was 
said, by a pigeon to the Rothschilds. 

This suspense ended on the 21st. 
Never shall I forget that evenifig ! Lord 
and Lady Castlereagh were dining two 
or three doors from their own house 
with Mrs. Boehm, to meet the Prince 
Regent, and I was sitting quietly alone, 
when suddenly there came the sound of 
shouting and the rush of a crowd, and 
running to the window to discover the 
cause of all this noise, I saw a post- 
chaise and four, with three of the French 
eagles projecting out of its windows, 
dashing across the square and to Lord 
Castlereagh's door. In a moment the 
horses' heads were turned, and away 
went the chaise to Mrs. Boehm's ; leav- 
ing me in a state of excited wonderment, 



ii8 Reminiscences of 1815. 

but feeling a conviction that this haste, 
and the three eagles, and the cheering 
of the people, announced a victory. 
Shortly after I received a message from 
Lady Castlereagh, telling me to dress 
and to join her at Mrs. Boehm's — this I 
did quickly. 

The ladies had left the dining-room, 
and I learnt that Major Henry Percy 
had arrived, the bearer of despatches 
from the Duke of Wellington, with the 
intelligence of a glorious and decisive 
victory of the Allies over the French 
army, commanded by Bonaparte in per- 
son. The despatches were being then 
read in the next room, to the Prince 
Regent, and we ladies remained silent, 
too anxious to talk, and longing to hear 
more. Lord Alvanley was the first 
gentleman who appeared, and he horri- 



iSij. A Septuagenarian. 119 

fied us with the Hst of names of killed 
and wounded ; and such names ! great 
and distinguished in the campaigns of 
the Peninsula, and become almost house- 
hold words. There were several for whom 
I felt a true regard. The Guards, he 
said, had suffered severely — my brother 
Ernest was in them, but the fate of a 
subaltern could not be known ! I had 
wished to hear more, and what I heard 
stupified me ; I could scarcely think or 
speak. Presently the Prince came in, 
looking very sad, and he said, with much 
feeling, words to this effect : 'It is a 
glorious victory, and we must rejoice at 
it, but the loss of life has been fearful, 
and / have lost many friends ; ' and 
while he spoke the tears ran down his 
cheeks. His Royal Highness remained 
but a short time, and soon after the 



1 20 Reminiscences of 1815. 

party broke up ; and I must, in justice to 
Lady Castlereagh, state that the account 
I read in some book that she went from 
Mrs. Boehm's to a ball at Sir George 
Talbot's, and spread the news (so heart- 
rending to many) there, was totally false, 
for immediately on hearing the details 
from Lord Alvanley, she made me write 
a note of excuse to Sir George Talbot 
both for herself and me, as she properly 
felt that going to a ball under such cir- 
cumstances was quite out of the question. 
Lord Alvanley had slipped out of the 
room, and went to the ball, and he cer- 
tainly had the credit of having sent half 
the ladies into fainting fits and hysterics. 



I was very anxious to learn something 
of my brother, and my friends were 



i8i5. A Septuagenarian. 121 

most kind in going to the Horse Guards 
and making enquiries respecting him ; 
and they soon assured me that from all 
they could hear, I might be at ease as to 
his safety. A few evenings after the 
2 1st (I forget the exact date) I was sent 
for by Lord Castlereagh and found him 
writing despatches to the Duke, and 
Major Percy in full uniform standing on 
the opposite side of the table ready to 
start with them. Lord Castlereagh in- 
stantly gave me a long despatch to copy, 
which I did as fast as I could, standing 
by his side, feeling very nervous all the 
while, with Major Percy staring and 
looking somewhat surprised at seeing 
me in the character of secretary. So 
absorbed was I in the mere mechanical 
act of writing rapidly, that I had no idea 
of the subject of the despatch ; the only 



122 Reminiscences of 1815. 

words I remembered being ' Bavarian 
Contingent.' 

Each day brought news of an exciting 
character. Napoleon had arrived in 
Paris on June 20, and finding that no 
hope was left him, fled on the 29th for 
Rochefort, which he reached on July 3, 
and embarked on board a small frigate, 
his intention being to sail for America^ 
but the ' Bellerophon,' a large English 
ship, being in sight, he made a virtue of 
necessity, and surrendered himself to 
Captain Maitland, who sailed imme- 
diately for England, and anchored in 
Torbay on July 25. Two days after- 
wards the ' Bellerophon ' sailed for Ply- 
mouth Sound, where Bonaparte re- 
mained till August 7, when he was 
transferred to the ' Northumberland,' the 



i8is. A Septuagenarian. 123 

flag-ship of Admiral Sir George Cock- 
burn, and sailed for St. Helena, which 
the Allies had decided was to be his 
future residence. While in Plymouth 
Sound immense crowds used to surround 
the ship in boats to see him walking on 
the quarter deck. He expressed so strong 
a desire to land at Mount Edgcumbe 
that Lord Keith, who commanded the 
Channel fleet, and Sir John Duckworth 
(the Port-Admiral) agreed to gratify his 
wish, and take him to Barnpool, the 
private landing place, at 4 a.m., and with 
themselves and other sufficient attend- 
ance to allow him to enjoy a walk there, 
the arrangement having been made 
known to my father. Unfortunately 
some information had reached the Go- 
vernment, which caused them the pre- 
vious (day to send orders that he should 



1 24 Reminiscences of 1815. 

be more strictly watched ; so the plan 
could not be carried into effect. In the 
meanwhile the English army had taken 
possession of Montmartre on July 4. 
Lord Castlereagh arrived in Paris on 
the 6th, to take part in the deliberations 
of the French and Allied ministers, and 
Louis XVI n. returned to it on the 8th. 
Lady Castlereagh was to join Lord 
Castlereagh as soon as Paris was in a 
settled state, and she had kindly obtained 
from my father permission for me to 
accompany her. The summons having 
come, Lady Castlereagh and I lost no 
time in starting on our journey. We 
found Sir Watkin Williams Wynn and 
his brother, Mr. Henry Wynn, at Dover 
waiting for a passage, which Lady Castle- 
reagh gave them in the packet she had 
engaged. When at Dessin's at Calais, 



i8is. . A Septuagenarian. 125 

the authorities came to pay their respects 
and make fine speeches to Lady Castle- 
reagh, and in the middle of this some- 
what formal proceeding, Sir Watkin's 
chair broke under him with a crash, and 
down he went to the ground. The 
authorities expressed great distress, and 
helped to pick up the prostrate Baronet, 
while Lady Castlereagh and I could, I 
fear, scarcely refrain from laughing. 

As soon as the carriage was ready and 
we had taken some refreshment, we pro- 
ceeded on our journey, sleeping one 
night on the road, and the next after- 
noon arrived at the H6tel Borghese, 
formerly the residence of the celebrated 
Princess Pauline, and which had lately 
been purchased for the English Embassy. 
There we were affectionately greeted by 
Lord Castlereagh, and kindly welcomed 



126 Reminiscences of 1815. 

by Sir Charles Stuart, the newly ap- 
pointed Ambassador at Paris. It was a 
fine hotel, splendidly furnished, and 
charmingly situated, with a garden open- 
ing on the Champs Elys6es. 

Lord and Lady Castlereagh's apart- 
ment was on the first floor, the Con- 
ference room being separated by an 
ante-room from the drawing-room. Sir 
Charles Stuart inhabited the ground floor, 
where were also the dining and ball 
rooms, and a suite of rooms connecting 
them ; I was mounted aloft. It was, I 
think, only one or two days after our 
arrival at Paris, that the English army 
was reviewed ; they marched up the 
Champs Elysees to the Place Louis 
XV. (now de la Concorde), where they 
passed before the Emperor Alexander 
and Monsieur, Lady Castlereagh rode. 



i8is. A Septuagenarian. 127 

but I went in an open carriage with my 
dear kind friend Lord Clancarty, to see 
this sight so glorious to English eyes, 
and so stirring to English hearts. 

Neither the Guards nor the other 
troops looked in parade dress ; their 
uniforms were stained and shabby, but 
did not one look with pride upon them ? 
they were those that had been worn at 
Waterloo ! With what an intensity did 
this feeling of national and just pride 
increase, and I may add ennoble, the 
gratification of being again at Paris, and 
of meeting the great and illustrious per- 
sons who had been there the preceding 
year. Then the interest excited by the 
important events that had occurred was 
of a general character ; now it had be- 
come almost personal ; one seemed to 
share in the glory of that indomitable 



128 Reminiscences of 1815. 

and determined army which had with- 
stood the fierce and repeated charges of 
the French in that wondrous battle, and 
had finally entered Paris as conquerors. 
Besides my brother Ernest, who was 
with the Guards, I found my cousin 
Ancrum (afterwards Lord Lothian) at 
Paris, and also his brother Schomberg, 
whose regiment was encamped in the 
Bois de Boulogne. 

Lord Clive and Mr. Ward (I think) 
were attached to Lord Castlereagh's em- 
bassy, and Mr. Planta was still his private 
secretary, Lord Clanwilliam occasionally 
copying despatches, but in fact being 
attachi to Lord Stewart, and living with 
him in the Hotel Montmorency. Mr. 
Dawkins, Mr. Hervey, and Lord James 
Stuart were Sir Charles Stuart's attachis. 



iSis- A Septuagenarian. 129 

What a change one year had made in 
the aspect of Paris ! In 18 14 there was 
a small sprinkling of English; in 181 5 
there was an English army, and the 
Duke and Duchess of Wellington estab- 
lished in a grand hotel, where they gave 
dinners and balls, Lord Hill in the Hotel 
Montesquieu, Lord Stewart, H6tel Mont- 
morency, Sir L. and Lady F. Cole 
quartered in Madame Junot's hotel, with 
Lady G. Bathurst as their guest, Lord 
and Lady Combermere at la Malmaison, 
and Sir Andrew Barnard the English 
Commandant of Paris ! And last, though 
not one of the least curious and interest- 
ing sights of that curious time, was to 
see the simple, unpretending depieanour 
of our soldiers, who sauntered "along as 
unconcernedly as they would have done 
in London. Troops of English flocked 



/ 



130 Reminiscences of 1815. 

to Paris. The Dukes of Rutland and 
Devonshire, the Dowager Duchess of 
Rutland, Lord and Lady Jersey, Lord 
and Lady Grantham, Mr. and Lady C. 
Lambe, Mr. Abbot (the Speaker), Sir 
Walter Scott, Mr. Jeffrey (the Edin- 
burgh Reviewer), &c., &c. Many stayed 
only a short time, and proceeded on to 
Italy ; but many remained, and amongst 
these were the Duke and Duchess of 
Richmond and their daughters, Lord 
and Lady Kinnaird, Sir Sidney Smith, 
Lady Smith, and the Misses Rumbold, 
Sir J . and Lady Shelley, Mr. and Mrs. 
Arbuthnot, and Miss Fitzclarence, who 
came with them, and others whose names 
do not now occur to me. Lord Castlereagh 
gave many great dinners. At the first, 
which took place a few days after we 
arrived, was His Royal Highness the 



i8is. A Septuagenarian. 131 

Prince of Orange,* whose arm, wounded 
at Waterloo, was still in a sling, and as 
I sat by his side, I cut the meat in his 
plate, for he could not do it himself. 
Subsequently the Emperor of Russia 
and his two brothers, the Grand Dukes 
Nicholas and Michel, were Lord Castle- 
reagh's guests. I had the honour of 
being handed to dinner by the Grand 
Duke Nicholas, then a tall stripling, his 
fine line of features giving promise of 
the splendidly handsome man he became. 
The Grand Duke Michel, though good- 
looking, was not to be compared with 
him in manly beauty, or indeed in at- 
tractiveness of manner. The Emperor 
was very strict with them, and they 

* The congress at Vienna had added Belgium to the 

Dutch provinces, and the father of the Prince of Orange 

had assumed the title of Roi des Pays-Bos. The Court 

to reside alternate years at the Hague and at Brussels. 

K 2 



132 Reminiscences of 1815. 

were allowed to go only to the Duke of 
--, Wellington and to Lady Castlereagh. 
These two young Princes visited England 
two or three years later, and my father 
and I had the honour of receiving them 
at Mount Edgcumbe. The Grand Duke 
Nicholas came only for one day, and my 
father was charmed with him. He was 
indeed the beau ideal of a young Prince, 
so handsome, so well mannered, and 
so gay ; playing like a boy with my 
father's poodle. In 181 8 he was fol- 
lowed by the Grand Duke Michel, who, 
though very civil, was also very shy, and 
the five days he remained with us would 
have passed somewhat heavily, had it 
not been for the various interesting ob- 
jects to be seen at Plymouth, which gave 
occupation for every morning. His Im- 
perial Highness had a large suite, and 



iSis- A Septuagenarian. 133 

one of the number was obviously a 
clever and scientific man, and took notes 
of all he saw. We suspected that he 
wrote the journal that the Empress, His 
Imperial Highness's mother, had desired 
him to keep. 

The King of Prussia and his two sons, 
the Prince Royal and Prince William, 
also dined with Lord Castlereagh, as 
did in their turn all the distinguished 
foreigners and English assembled at 
Paris at this exciting moment. ^ 

Excepting on Sundays, or when there 
was a ball. Lady Castlereagh went most 
evenings to one of the theatres. She 
had boxes at four — the Grand Op6ra, 
the Frangais, the F^deau, and the 
Varidtes. On her return from the 
theatre, she received and had a supper 
in the same way as in the preceding 



134 Reminiscences of 1815. 

year; but how far more brilliant were 
the parties of 181 5, both as to the num- 
ber and the rank of those who attended 
them ! Besides numbers of English, and 
many of the diplomatists, the King of 
Prussia used to drop in occasionally ; the 
two Princes, his sons, frequently (at- 
tended by the traveller Humboldt) ; and 
the Prince Royal of Bavaria, Prince 
Frederic of Prussia, Prince Leopold of 
Saxe-Cobourg, and others too numerous 
to mention,' constantly. 

When the Princes of Prussia came, 
we always tried to get up a valse, as 
they delighted in dancing. Sometimes 
we had a little music, and Prince 
Leopold, who had a beautiful voice, 
would sing with much taste and feeling ; 
and if Blangini was not there to accom- 
pany him, I used to do my best. He 



iS'S- A Septuagenarian. 135 

also drew very well, and I still possess a 
drawing in pen and ink which he began 
one day in my sketch-book, and which 
he took home to finish for me. Seeing 
him, as I did, alrnost daily, either walk- 
ing or riding, or sitting by him at supper, 
I had opportunities for perceiving what 
an intellectual, well-informed, and ac- 
complished person he was. I have since 
often thought how strangely it happened 
that I should become so intimately, ac- 
quainted with the Prince whom Princess 
Charlotte was to have married as well as 
the one she did marry. 

In the list of princes, I ought to have 
mentioned the Landgrave of Hesse 
Homberg, a soldier-like, rough, but 
good-humoured man, who did not attract 
much notice, but who afterwards became 
the husband of Princess Elizabeth. 



136 Reminiscences of 1815. 

Of our French acquaintance, the one 
we saw most frequently was la Princesse 
de Vaudemont, nSe de Lorraine, who had 
known Lord Castlereagh when, as a 
young man, he had travelled abroad. 
She was a trh-grande dame as to birth, 
clever, and, I imagine, intriguante in 
politics, with a coarse voice, and some- 
what coarse manners, but friendly, and 
good-natured withal. Lady Castlereagh 
and I went to breakfast with her at a 
pretty villa she had at Suresnes, and 
she kindly wished me to make her a 
visit of some days, which was very 
flattering, but, agreeable though she cer- 
tainly was, Paris was still more agree- 
able, and so, as no time was fixed, the 
visit never took place. The Marquise 
de Coignde, another clever and witty 
Frenchwoman (who had passed some 



iSiS- A Septuagenarian. 137 

years in England at the period of the 
Revolution), used often to call on Lady 
Castlereagh. She, too, had a most dis- 
agreeable voice, of which she was quite 
aware, and said of it, ' ye nai quune 
voix contre moi — cest la mienne.' When 
she called, she generally brought with 
her a pretty little grandchild, who had 
taken a fancy to me, and always begged 
to accompany her when she came to 
Lady Castlereagh's. This pretty little 
child was the daughter of Count Sebas- 
tiani (afterwards French Ambassador in 
London in the reign of Louis- Philippe), 
and became the unfortunate Madame de 
Praslin, whose murder by her husband 
caused such a sensation both in France 
and England. 

****** 
There had been a revolution in Prince 



138 Reminiscences of 1815. 

Talleyrand's establishment. The Prin- 
cess no longer formed part of it. The 
Prince had dismissed her, it was said ; 
at any rate she was gone, and had taken 
herself to England ; and in her, stead 
were Prince Talleyrand's nephew, le 
Baron de Talleyrand, and his wife, a 
young, gay, and rather pretty woman. 
****** 
. I mentioned before that the room 
where the Conferences were held was 
separated only by an ante-room from 
the drawing-room, in which I passed 
great part of the mornings alone. Lady 
Castlereagh being usually late ; and into 
this room, if Lord Castlereagh was not 
ready. Prince Metternich, Prince Har- 
denberg. Baron de Humboldt, Prince 
Rasomoffsky, Count Capo d'Istria, the 
Duke of Wellington, and the Due de 



i8is. A Septuagenarian. 139 

Richelieu, would often come and stand 
talking to me as I sat at my little table 
writing my letters and Lady Castle- 
reagh's notes. That these distinguished 
men, who were then settHng the affairs 
of Europe, should condescend thus to 
pass a few spare minutes in friendly and 
pleasant conversation with me was, I 
confess (and not unnaturally), very grati- 
fying to my vanity at the time, and a 
circumstance to look back upon as one 
of the most interesting passages of my 
life at Paris. 

Prince Metternich, during the Con- 
ferences, was in the habit of drawing on 
little scraps of paper and throwing them 
torn under the table; so I begged him, 
the next time he drew anything, to let 
me have it, and accordingly one morning 
he brought me two little drawings. 



140 Reminiscences of 1815. 

slightly but prettily done, of chapels like 
those seen by the roadside in Roman 
Catholic countries. Of Prince Metter- 
nich's handsome and intellectual coun- 
tenance, his pleasing manners and agree- 
able conversation, it were useless for me 
to speak, they were so well known, were 
European in their celebrity, and could 
not easily be forgotten. It was, there- 
fore, with great pleasure that I renewed 
my acquaintance with him many years 
afterwards when he came to England ; 
and though age had told upon him, 
flashes of his former brilliancy at times 
shone forth. Prince Hardenberg, Chan- 
cellor of Prussia, was an old man, 
and striking in his appearance, tall, with 
snow-white hair and fine features, ex- 
pressive of benevolence. To me he 
was always most kind ; we became great 



iSis- A Septuagenarian. 141 

friends, and I felt real regret when we 
left Paris at the thought that I should 
probably never see the dear old man 
again. And I never did. 

»«*#»♦ 
Lord Castlereagh very kindly had a 
horse brought from England for my 
riding, and as the weather was glorious, we 
took many delightful rides. One morn- 
ing Lady Castlereagh, I, and two or 
three more, rode to St Cloud to call on 
Marshal Blucher, who had established 
his head-quarters there, and we were 
welcomed most courteously and cordially 
by the old soldier and his itat major. 
People in England had a notion that 
' Old Blucher,' as they called him, was a 
coarse rough old fellow ; but it was not 
so ; and when receiving his friends his 
manners were perfectly well-bred, with a 



142 Reminiscences of 1815. 

pleasant mixture of heartiness in them. 
He must have been a handsome man 
when young, and had well-shaped aristo- 
cratic hands, and small and delicately- 
curled ears. Some little time afterwards 
he invited us to an early dinner. Lady 
Castlereagh, Mr. and Mrs. Arbuthnot, 
and Miss Fitzclarence, went together, 
and Lord Stewart drove me in his 
curricle. We were, as far as I can 
remember, nearly all the English of the 
party, which was a large one, the greater 
portion being Prussian officers. I was 
handed to dinner by General Thielman, 
an old man, who held a high position in 
the Prussian army, and whose name was 
well and honourably known in the late 
campaigns. Having never seen him be- 
fore, I felt rather shy, but he was very 
good-natured, and at last I said some- 



i8is. A Septuagenarian. 143 

thing that amused him, and, turning 
round quickly, he said, 'Ah! je vols 
que vous ites espiegle', and from that 
moment we were very merry. During 
dinner we were charmed by the music 
of the military bands, which afterwards 
played valses and mazourkes ; and I 
danced both a valse and a mazourke 
with Prince Blucher himself, who by his 
performance might have shamed many 
young men. 

General Thielman also came up to me, 
saying, ' // faut que j'aie une valse avec 
vous,' so away we went, he seeming to 
enjoy his dance as much as I did. Al- 
together it was a most agreeable day, 
and nothing could exceed the courtesy 
and kindness of the old Marshal. Sir 
Henry Hardinge (subsequently created 
Lord Hardinge), who was attached to his 



144 Reminiscences of 1815. 

army in Belgium, and who lost his hand 
at the battle of Ligny, always spoke of 
the anxiety and kind attention he evinced 
towards him when ill and suffering from 
his wound. It is odd that this should 
be the first mention I have made of 
Sir Henry Hardinge, for he was one 
of our most constant guests, and be- 
came a dear and valued friend, whose 
friendship never changed during all the 
years of his distinguished and honourable 
career. 

His marriage with Lord Castlereagh's 
half-sister. Lady Emily (the widow of 
Mr. James), with whom I had always 
lived in affectionate intimacy, in no way 
lessened the friendly intercourse of years 
long passed away. I may as well note 
down here that, on my return to Eng- 
land, Sir Henry sent me the copy of the 



i8is. A Septuagenarian. 145 

' Memoirs of Madame de la Roche- 
Jacquelin' which had been presented by 
her to Louis XVIII. It was found by 
the Prussians in Bonaparte's carriage on 
the field of Waterloo, and was given by 
Prince Blucher to Sir Henry. The 
royal arms are emblazoned on the 
binding, and there are notes in several 
places on the margin, which, Prince 
Pierre d'Arenberg told me, were written 
by Louis XVIII., whose hand-writing 
Prince d'Arenberg knew well. Alto- 
gether it is a most interesting book, and 
I felt very grateful to Sir Henry for the 
gift. 

On our return from the pleasant party 
at Prince Blucher 's, where I had danced 
all the afternoon in a bonnet and morn- 
ing dress, I had to make a smart toilette, 



146 Reminiscences of 1815. 

and prepare myself for dancing all night, 
and set the others dancing, at a ball at 
home. 

Lady Castlereagh made me her aide- 
de-camp on all occasions, and it was my 
wish to be as useful as I could in return 
for her kindness in bringing me to Paris ; 
but sometimes, I confess, I was not a 
little nervous when doing her bidding. 
At one ball, as she was not ready, she 
sent to me to go down-stairs, some of 
the guests being already arrived, and I 
shall not forget my horror on entering 
the room at seeing seated at the far end 
of it a row of people, of whom I knew 
only two even by sight, and those two 
were my bHe noire, the odious Fouchd 
and Madame Catalani ! With Fouchd 
was his lately-married wife — a handsome 
Madlle. de Castellane, whose counte- 



iSis- A Septuagenarian. 147 

nance was determined and not pleasing, 
and who seemed young enough to be 
his daughter. The other guests were 
equally heterogeneous. There were 
Madame Maison, the wife of General 
Maison, the French Commandant of 
Paris, an English general and his wife 
(whose names I have forgotten), &c. &c., 
none of whom appeared to be acquainted 
with each other any more than I was 
with them ; so all I could do was to 
make mes rivirences and my aunt's ex- 
cuses for being late, and say a civil little 
word to each till Lady Castlereagh made 
her appearance and other guests arrived. 
This ball was one of many, and very gay 
and brilliant they were, from the number 
of distinguished persons present at them ; 
but with this exception they were like 
all balls, and not worth describing. 



T48 Reminiscences of 1815, 

Neither shall I mention, excepting cur- 
sorily, the delightful morning parties and 
early dinners we had at Versailles and 
St. Cloud, on which occasions les eaux 
were made to play for Lady Castle- 
reagh. 

One afternoon, when walking in the 
Champs Elysdes, Lord Castlereagh was 
knocked down by a horse kicking him 
on the knee, and he was brought home 
in a carriage, very faint and in much 
pain. Happily, however, there was no 
serious injury from the severity of the 
blow, and though he was confined to his 
bed several days, he would probably 
have soon left it, had he not been kept 
there by an attack of gout in the injured 
knee. 

As soon as he was able to attend to 



iSiS- A Septuagenarian. 149 

business, the conferences, which had 
been suspended, were resumed in the 
evening in his bed-room. 



The following letter is taken from a 
copy of one which I wrote to my father, 
giving an account of the review of the 
Russian army on the plains of Vertus : — 

Hotel Borghese, Sept. 13, 1815. 

My dear Father, — We returned last 
night from the review, which I would 
not for the world have missed seeing. 
Never was there a more magnificent 
sight. It took place near the town of 
Vertus, and the country, much resembling 
the Salisbury Plains, was admirably cal- 
culated for it. The troops, to the amount 
of 160,000 men, were drawn up in three 



I5Q Reminiscences of 1815. 

lines at the foot of a hill, on the summit 
of which were the Sovereigns with their 
staffs, the Duke of Wellington, &c., &c. 
A little lower were benches for the other 
spectators. At a signal given from the 
hill, the troops having formed into 
squares, the Sovereigns descended, and 
rode round them. This took about an 
hour, though they rode at a canter. 

Lady Castlereagh, myself, and the 
other ladies who rode, then got upon our 
horses, and repaired to the spot where 
the great personages had placed them- 
selves for the army to pass before them. 
This it did in double columns, the Em- 
peror of Russia at its head saluting the 
other Sovereigns. But the close of all 
was the most striking, and you, who like 
a feu de joie, would have been charmed 
with it. The Sovereigns, &c., &c. hav- 



i8is. A Septuagenarian. 151 

ing returned to the hill, and the troops 
being again formed into three lines, a 
general volley was fired by 300 pieces of 
cannon, instantly followed by a running 
fire from the lines, which continued for 
half-an-hour. It is impossible to con- 
ceive anything finer. Indeed the whole 
scene was beautiful, animating, and in- 
teresting to a great degree ; though I 
am not sure it was as much so as what 
we saw the following morning, when the 
whole army was assembled to hear Mass 
and Te Deum. I shall never forget the 
moment when, having turned the point 
of the hill, it burst suddenly upon our 
view, formed into seven open squares 
of 25,000 men each, placed at short dis- 
tances one from another, and each with 
one side of the square formed by a green 
tent in which the service was to be per- 






'.n. 




m 



iii'i 







y /g'l 



iSis- A Septuagenarian. 153 

formed. The Emperor's, placed on the 
side of a hill, and backed by a small low 
wood, commanded a view of the other 
six. There we were : and what a sin- 
gular spectacle we had before us ! In 
one tent to see assembled the Emperor 
of Russia and three Grand Dukes ; the 
Emperor of Austria, tie Prince Royal, 
and one Archduke ; the King of Prussia, 
and his two sons ; a multitude of other 
princes ; and Wellington, Schwartzen- 
berg, Wrede, Platoff, Barclay de Tolly ; 
in short, with the exception of Blucher, 
all those who have distinguished them- 
selves in the late war; and from this 
tent to behold an immense army of con- 
querors, who all at the same instant fell 
on their knees in prayer and thanks- 
giving, seemed more like a tale in the 
Arabian Nights than an occurrence of 



1 54 Reminiscences of 1815. 

real life. The magnificent dresses of 
the priests and the perfume of the in- 
cense were calculated to increase the 
illusion. The music, entirely vocal, was 
beautiful and solemn ; in short, it all ap- 
peared enchantment. When, at the con- 
clusion of the service, the Sovereigns 
mounted their horses, and galloped 
amongst the troops, and the religious 
silence preserved before, was succeeded 
by the hurrahs which rent the skies, the 
scene, though changed, was not less 
beautiful. 

All was movement : the squares 
closing and forming into lines, and 
marching to the camp ; the generals fly- 
ing about in every direction, attended by 
their aides-de-camp, and followed by a 
few Cossacks ; the number and singular 
■appearance of the equipages, altogether 



i8is. A Septuagenarian. 155 

formed a most curious and animated 
picture, and I wish I could do it jus- 
tice by my description, which I fear is 
very bad, but as la bonne volonti is 
not what I want, I hope you will be in- 
dulgent. 

As yet I have not said anything of 
what regards us personally, mais chacun 
son tour id bas, so now I come toit. In 
my last I told you that the Emperor had 
sent Lady Castlereagh an order for the 
post-masters to give us horses, and a 
billet de logement. Without the former, 
I know not what we should have done, 
as even with it we found great difficulty 
in procuring horses. We started on 
Saturday, and slept at Meaux, to get 
clear of those who set off on Sun- 
day, in the afternoon of which day we 
arrived at our quarters, le Ckdteau du 



156 Reminiscences of 1815. 

Petit Morin, where the Emperor had 
been in the morning to see that 
everything was well arranged for us, 
had himself settled the different rooms 
we were to have, and had even stayed 
till he had seen a bed moved into the 
one which was to be mine. 

A captain's guard was stationed in the 
court, and presented arms whenever Lady 
Castlereagh went in or out, and the 
officers were to see that we had every- 
thing we wanted. Lady Castlereagh's 
saddle horses travelled with the Em- 
peror's, but as she determined to go in a 
carriage to the review, and only get on 
our horses there. His Imperial Majesty 
sent a britzska with six horses, driven by 
his_ coachman, and two Cossacks, to take 
us, and an aide-de-camp to attend upon 
us. So, at the early hour of six, off we 



i8is. A Septuagenarian. 157 

set in grand style, the aide-de-camp at 
one portiere, le capitaine de nos gardes 
at the other, and two soldiers gallop- 
ing before us; the Arbuthnots, Miss 
Fitzclarence, Ancrum, and Seymour 
Bathurst, who belonged to our party, 
following in their carriage. In the 
evening, after dinner, we went to the 
camp. Lady Castlereagh in the carriage 
with the Arbuthnots ; and Miss Fitz- 
clarence, Ancrum and I on horseback. 
And I flatter myself we made a fine 
effect scampering over the plain, toujours 
accompagnis by our two officers and 
two soldiers. The evening was set in 
before we left the camp, the moon 
shone beautifully, and the scene was 
exceedingly picturesque ; there were but 
few tents, but the soldiers had made 
themselves huts of straw, and as they 



158 Reminiscences of 1815. 

stood round their fires in loose coats or 
cloaks thrown about them, they brought 
to one's mind Scott's description of 
Roderick Dhu and his followers : with 
them, however, the likeness ceased, for 
nothing can less resemble the beautiful 
country he describes than that around 
Vertus, which is dreary and ugly in the 
extreme ; scarcely a bush or a blade of 
grass to be seen. On Tuesday, having 
taken an early dinner after the Te 
Deum, we took leave of our host and 
hostess (who I should think must have 
been most happy to get rid of us), and 
set off on our return hither, taking a 
different road to escape the difficulty of 
getting horses on the other, and also to 
see more of the country. We were 
glad we had made this determination, as 
besides passing through a much prettier 



iSis- A Septuagenarian. 159 

countr)-', the road was interesting, from 
being that taken last year by the Allies, 
the traces of whose march are still 
most visible ; not a village that has not 
suffered ; at Mery little is left besides 
stacks of chimneys. From the bridge 
the ruins were so picturesque that I 
could not resist making a little sketch of 
them. The inn of the small village 
where we slept had been nearly de- 
stroyed, and the inhabitants reduced to 
the greatest poverty. 

On our return here we were happy to 
find Lord Castlereagh so much better 
that he could walk on crutches : he had 
been out for an airing in the morning. 
He continues to mend, and to-day walks 
with the assistance of a stick. I send 
you a little sketch of the Mont Aimd, 
with the position of the troops, and also 



i8is- Reminiscences. i6i 

one of the general appearance of the 
squares at the Te Deum. 

Yours affectionately, &c., 

E. S. E. 

In the course of the following weeks, 
there were various reviews of the 
English army in the plains of St. 
Denis, or Crenelles (1 forget which), 
and we went to them on horseback. 
They were more than usually interest- 
ing, for, unlike the generality of reviews, 
they did not consist merely of a succes- 
sion of evolutions, but they represented 
different battles that had been fought in 
the Peninsula. On one occasion there 
was the battle of Salamanca, on another 
the retreat from Burgos, and all this was 
done without any preconcerted arrange- 

M 



1 62 Reminiscences of 1815. 

ment, for, when the troops came on the 
ground, they did not know what was to 
be the plan of operations. The pre- 
cision and quickness with which the 
orders were carried out were admirable, 
and called forth the surprise and un- 
equivocal approbation of the Sovereigns 
and Generals present. It should be 
recollected also, that these troops were 
not composed principally of the old 
Peninsula men, a great portion of whom 
had been sent from the south of France 
after the battle of Toulouse to join the 
army then fighting in America, but the 
numbers had been made up by second 
battalions, and regiments despatched 
in haste from England. My brother 
Ernest was in the ist or Grenadier 
Guards (so named subsequently to the 
battle of Waterloo), and his first battle 



i8is. A Septuagenarian. 163 

was that of Quatre Bras, where he was 
hit by a spent ball, and being in con- 
sequence unable to join his regiment, he 
was appointed to the escort of the 
wounded sent to Brussels ; a dreadful 
service, the horrors of which, from the 
groans and screams of the dying and 
wounded, as they were jolted in rough 
carts, over a rough road, he never 
forgot. 

Before quitting the subject of armies 
and reviews, I may as well say that the 
Archduke I mentioned, as being in the 
Emperor of Russia's tent at the Te 
Deumat Vertus was the Archduke John, 
with whom I became acquainted at 
Paris, and who, accompanied by his 
brother the Archduke Louis, afterwards 
honoured my father and myself by a 



164 Reminiscences of 1815. 

visit at Mount Edgcumbe. The latter 
was shy and reserved, while on the 
contrary the Archduke John was one of 
the most pleasing persons I ever met. 
What his age was then, I do not know, 
and I should think he looked older than 
he was, for his head was nearly bald, 
and his face thin and pale, but the 
expression of his countenance was kind 
and interesting to a great degree. Some 
years later he made a romantic mor- 
ganatic marriage with a person much 
beneath him in birth and position, but I 
understand it has proved a happy one. 
****** 
For some time there had been 
rumours that the Allies intended to in- 
sist upon the restitution by the French 
of all the spoils in works of art that 
Bonaparte had carried off during the 



i8is. A Septuagenarian. 165 

late wars from Italy, the Netherlands, 
Prussia, &c. The Prussians first put 
in their claims, then the King of the 
Netherlands advanced those of the 
Belgians for the fine pictures taken 
from their churches, and the Austrians 
claimed the famous Corinthian horses 
for Venice. 

The sculptor Canova arrived from 
Rome with a list, to identify, on behalf 
of the Pope and other princes of Italy, 
the priceless gems in paintings and 
marbles that had been so ruthlessly 
plundered from them. In Canova they 
had a most zealous and persevering 
advocate. He used to come frequently 
in the evening to Lady Castlereagh's 
parties, where I observed him speaking 
earnestly with those he thought might 
influence the decision ; and then he 



1 66 Reminiscences of 1815. 

would come to me, and unburthen his 
mind of all his hopes and fears. And 
when at length the fiat went forth, and 
the despoiled countries were to have 
their own again, his happiness was 
overflowing, his dark Italian eyes and 
expressive face were lighted up with 
enthusiasm, and he wept from emotion. 

This just decision of the Allies was a 
severe blow to the pride and vanity of 
the French (or perhaps, more correctly 
speaking, of the Parisians), but they 
needed it ; they needed this ' great 
moral lesson,' as the Duke of Wellington 
called it. The events of 18 14 had 
taught them nothing, and those of 1 815, 
and the second invasion, and possession 
of their capital by foreign armies, 
would probably have passed from their 
memories in a few years, had not the 



i8i5. A Sephiagenarian. 167 

bare walls of the picture gallery and the 
empty statue galleries of the Louvre 
impressed upon their eyes and minds 
the fact that Europe had at last roused 
itself, that their day of spoliation and 
attempt at universal dominion was over, 
and that they were no longer conquerors, 
but conquered. 

While the preparations for restitution 
were going on, we went frequently to 
the Louvre to see the glorious paintings 
and statues before they gradually dis- 
appeared. And a curious sight it was, 
workmen busily employed in taking the 
pictures down and putting them in 
packing cases, and a number of the 
English Guards placed at short intervals 
the whole length of the gallery, to see 
that they were not damaged either from 
carelessness or spite. 



1 68 Reminiscences of 1815. 

Many French came while this was 
going on. They appeared to be princi- 
pally of the middle and lower classes : 
some looking sad and crest-fallen, and 
others furious, and muttering curses not 
loud but deep. I fancied, from the 
greater number roaming in the statue 
galleries, and the sterner expression of 
their countenances, that they felt more 
the removal of the statues, than that 
of the pictures. But under almost any 
circumstances French self-sufficiency is 
sure to appear, and I was much amused 
at hearing one individual comfort him- 
self by saying, ' Ah, nous ferons bien 
d'autres ! ' the statues he was then 
looking at, as the workmen were put- 
ting them in their case, being the 
Apollo Belvedere, and the Venus de' 
Medici ! 



i8is- A Septuagenarian. 169 

The next act of restitution, one most 
galling to the Parisians, was the removal 
from the Triumphal Car in the Place du 
Carrousel of the four horses claimed by 
the Austrians for Venice. Fears being 
entertained that mobs might assemble 
and cause some disturbance, all the 
entrances to the Place were kept by 
Austrian cuirassiers, and no carriages 
were admitted with the exception of 
those belonging to English persons. 

Lady Castlereagh having sent me 
on a shopping expedition, I thought 
I would try to see what was going 
on, and I arrived opposite the arch 
at a lucky moment, and had the plea- 
sure of seeing one of the horses in 
the act of being lowered by English 
engineers ! 

There were, I should think, several 



1 70 Reminiscences of 1815. 

hundred lookers-on, of the class who 
inhabit the Faubourg St. Antoine ; and 
though I was in a very humble voiture 
de louage, with a laquais de place behind, 
they knew I must be an Englishwoman, 
and many surrounded the carriage, 
staring at me with most ferocious and 
villanous expressions of countenance, 
which seemed to say, ' We should like to 
pull you out, and tear you to pieces if 
we could.' I was too well guarded by 
the Austrians around, to have any fears ; 
but my thoughts reverted to the blood- 
thirsty revolutionary mobs, of which 
those I then looked at seemed to be 
the worthy successors. 

Often have I driven through ex- 
cited English mobs, but they were 
mild and amiable in their appearance 
when compared with the ferocious 



i8is. A Septuagenarian. 171 

demeanour of these French specimens, 
who were apparently capable of any 
atrocity. 

My brother Ernest was on duty that 
day, and was yelled at and abused as 
he passed along. 

After these acts of political justice 
were completed, I thought I perceived 
a change of feeling towards the English, 
and especially towards the Duke of 
Wellington; which I attributed to their 
having possibly the credit of being the 
prime movers in these transactions, as 
their soldiers were employed to carry 
them out. And so a tendency to bitter- 
ness of feeling may have arisen, which 
had not existed before. Between the 
French and English It had been a fair 
stand-up fight of brave men against 
brave men, unattended by Insult or 



172 Reminiscences of 1815. 

outrage on either side, and each re- 
spected the other. With the Prussians 
the case was very different ; they had 
been subjected to invasion and con- 
tumely from Bonaparte (who had in- 
sulted their lovely and loved Queen) 
down to his officers and soldiers, who 
pillaged or destroyed everything that 
fell into their hands. For this long 
score of injuries the Prussians panted 
for vengeance — and who can wonder at 
it ? On their entering Paris, in 1 8 1 4, it 
is well known there was some diffi- 
culty in restraining them from destroy- 
ing several monuments of art that re- 
called the memories of the French 
triumphs over them. In illustration of 
this feeling I will mention an anecdote I 
heard at the time. A young Prussian 
officer requested to be quartered in the 



iSis- A Septuagenarian. 173 

house of an old gentleman and his 
wife, who received him very civilly, and 
being a kind old couple, did all in their 
power to make him comfortable. Some 
weeks passed, and when the^ officer 
was about to leave, he asked his hosts 
to come to his room, where, to their 
utter dismay, they found the tables and 
chairs broken, the bedding and sheets 
torn to shreds, in short, all the furniture 
entirely destroyed. 

The poor old people were struck 
dumb at this wholesale destruction of 
their property; but when at last they 
could give utterance to their feelings, 
they entreated the officer to tell them 
what they had done to deserve such 
treatment. Had they been guilty of 
any neglect or rudeness ? If they had, 
it was quite unintentional on their 



1 74 Reminiscences of 1815. 

part, for it had been their wish to do 
everything that would be agreeable to 
him. 

' No,' was the reply ; ' it is impossible 
to be kinder, or more attentive, than you 
have shown yourselves to me. I have 
nothing to complain of; but I asked to 
be quartered in your house, that I might 
let you see in one room, what your son 
did to every room in my father's house in 
Berlin.' 

I do not remember the name, of this 
officer, and I do not wish to remember 
it, for though the provocation was 
doubtless great, his manner of revenging 
his father's wrongs (putting aside all 
higher feelings) was neither magnani- 
mous nor gentlemanlike. It was in- 
deed reversing the order of things, and 
making the good parents suffer for the 



i8is- A Septuagenarian. 175 

misdeeds of their lawless and ruthless 



son. 



Count Ferdinand Palfy took Lady 
Castlereagh and myself one morning to 
the studio of the painter David, to 
see his full-length portrait of Napoleon, 
which, since the entrance of the Allied 
armies, he had turned with its- face 
to the wall, but which he turned round 
again for our benefit. Besides this 
picture, there were several others he 
showed to us. One of them was very 
curious, and very French in its con- 
ception. It rfepresented the Lacedae- 
monians at the Pass of Thermopylse, 
the figures being, as far as I recollect, 
from one foot to two feet in height. 
Leonidas was standing in front of his 
gallant band, with a splendid helmet of 



1 76 Reminiscences of 1815. 

chased gold and silver on his head, an 
equally resplendent shield on one arm, 
and the other holding out a sword. 
From his shoulders depended a short 
cloak of bright scarlet, embroidered all 
round with a honeysuckle pattern in 
gold. His feet were sandalled, but these 
were all the garments he had on. His 
followers were in a similar costume, 
which astonished our three weak 
prosaic minds extremely. At last, 
Count Palfy ventured to observe that he 
thought the Spartans had worn clothes, 
and asked David why he painted them 
without. ' Oh ! ' he replied, ' such heroes 
and demigods could not be put into the 
trammels of dress like common mortals.' 
On a rising ground in the distance, 
there was a group of little people with 
full grey robes covering them from their 



i8is. A Septuagenarian. 177 

chin to their feet, and fastened round 
their waists with a girdle. I was curious 
to know who they might be, and was 
told, they were the Helots, who were so 
attired to mark their inferiority ! Surely 
never was there such absurd sentiment, 
such sontiment on stilts ! And as I 
looked at the picture, and listened to 
the artist's explanations, I could not 
help thinking, if this was the production 
of one of the best French painters, how 
little they had profited by the posses- 
sion for so many years of the chefs- 
d'oeuvre now taken from them. 

David himself was a sight, as well as 
his pictures, but not a pleasing one in 
any way. Unlike the smoothness and 
high finish and unmeaning faces which 
characterised his heroes, his face was 
remarkably coarse, and the expression 

N 



178 Reminiscences of 1815. 

of the countenance decidedly bad, fully 
confirming one's belief in the accounts of 
his conduct during the worst days of the 
Revolution. When I saw him, his 
natural ugliness was increased by a 
diseased upper lip, most disagreeable to 
look upon, and which I feared must have 
caused much pain. 

He was soon afterwards banished 
from France, and went to Brussels, 
where he died in the year 1825. 

****** 

We had various pleasant dinners at 
the Duke of Wellington's, Lord Stewart's, 
and Count Pozzo di Borgo's, then Rus- 
sian Ambassador at Paris, and who, 
some ten or twelve years later, became 
ambassador in London. The only 
pleasing remembrance I have of the six 
days passed on board the 'Erebus' is. 



iSis- A Septuagenarian. i'j<^ 

that I there made the acquaintance of 
this most agreeable and remarkable man. 
His appearance was striking ; he had a 
fine military-looking figure, with a grand 
and intellectual forehead and brows, and 
cheery, pleasant manners. A Corsican 
by birth, he was in the Ecole MUitaire 
at Paris with the other young Corsican, 
Bonaparte ! There they quarrelled, and a 
good lasting hatred sprang up between 
them, which continued all their lives. 

In process of time Pozzo di Borgo 
entered the Russian service, and was 
despatched by the Emperor Alexander 
to London, to persuade the Government 
to send Lord Castlereagh, or some other 
minister, to join the deliberations of the 
Sovereigns and their ministers, with a 
view to their entering into negotiations 
with Bonaparte. In 1815 he inhabited a 



1 80 Reminiscences of 1815. 

very pretty hotel on the other side of the 
Boulevards, and the gastronomes said 
he had one of the four good cooks in 
Paris, the other three being in the 
establishments of Louis XVI 1 1., the 
Prince Talleyrand, and Robert le Re- 
staurateur. 

, Thus days and weeks passed away 
very pleasantly, but without the oc- 
currence of any event that called for 
particular notice, till at length in the 
beginning of November the day came 
when Marshal Ney* was to be brought 

* I had been led to believe that when Ney made 
his protestations of devotion to Louis XVI II., and 
vent to take the command of the army against Bona- 
parte, Jhe meant what he said ; but that he was weak, 
that the sight' of his old commander brought back his 
old attachment, and acting upon impulse he broke his 
vows. But I have lately heard, from good authority, 
that his conduct was premeditated, for he actually took 
with him the imperia,l field-marshal's uniform, and the 



iSis- A Septuagenarian. i8i 

up for trial before a court-martiah 
Against the competency of this court to 
try him, he appealed, and as it was 
known that the arguments of counsel on 
this legal point would occupy the attention 
of the court the whole day, and that the 
case of life or death would not be involved 
in the discussion, I was glad to accom- 
pany Lady Castlereagh to see this 
singular and interesting scene. 

Seated on chairs, placed in a semi- 
circle on a raised platform, were the 
marshals and generals. The president 
was Marshal Jourdan, whose baton had 
been taken at the battle of Vittoria, and 
sent to England. On his right sat 
Massena, a spare, dark, ill-looking man 

decorations of the Legion of Honour, all of which had 
been abolished and jiroscribed. And so vanishes the 
sentimental excuse which I would fain have made 
for him. 



1 82 Reminiscences of 1815. 

with only one eye, the other having 
been shot by Bonaparte in a chasse. 
Besides these were Marshals Augereau 
Due de Castiglione, ai;id Mortier Due de 
Treviso, Generals Comte Villette, Cla- 
parede, and Maison, Governor of Paris 
— all names well known in Bonaparte's 
triumphant campaigns, and some of them 
as having opposed ineffectually, year 
after year, the progress of the English 
army in the Peninsula. 

With the exception of Mortier, they 
were certainly not a prepossessing set. 
When Ney, their former comrade, en- 
tered the court, and was placed before 
them, their countenances were pitiable to 
behold ; they cast down their eyes, as if 
wanting the courage to look him in the 
face. Ney's manner was what it ought 
to be, calm and simple, which gave him 



i8is. A Septuagenarian. i8 



o 



an unusual air of dignity. He was a 
strongly-built man, above the middle 
height, fair complexioned, with yellow 
hair and eyebrows, short nose, and long 
upper lip ; nothing distinguished, or 
even French, about him. In fact, he had 
much the look of an English yeoman. 
With him, as well as with Mortier, I had 
become slightly acquainted in the pre- 
vious year, when they had both dined at 
Lord Castlereagh's ; and Lady Castlereagh 
had been deputed by the Napier family 
to express their thanks and gratitude to 
Marshal Ney, for his great kindness to 
Colonel (afterwards Sir) Charles Napier, 
who had been left for dead on the field 
of Corunna, had fallen into the hands of 
the French, and was especially under the 
care of Marshal Ney, whose treatment of 
him was most humane and generous. 



184 Reminiscences of 1815. 

I could not, therefore, feel otherwise 
than sad at seeing this man who had 
been so kind, this man with such an 
honest-looking countenance, this 'brave 
des braves', standing there before us as 
a traitor, and ere long to meet (and 
justly, too) a traitor's doom. Bonaparte 
I think it was who said, ' du sublime 
au ridicule il ny a qu'un pas,' and 
this was the case on this occasion. 
The court was crowded, and a feeling 
of solemnity and decorum generally 
prevailed, but just behind me was a man 
evidently an ardent admirer, or possibly 
a relation or friend of Marshal Ney, 
who, immediately upon the Marshal's 
entering, began jumping about in the 
most annoying and absurd manner, 
sobbing, and exclaiming ' Ak, ce pativre 
marichal, ce cher markhal ! ' much to 



iSis- A Septuagenarian. 185 

the disturbance of those around him. 
I wondered that the officers of the 
court did not stop his noise and antics ; 
but still more did I wonder, that a man 
who had so little command over his 
feelings did not stay at home, instead of 
coming to display them thus publicly. 
No Englishman yvould, I am sure, have 
so acted, however deep or intense his 
grief might have been. 

November 10. — The court declared, 
itself incompetent to try Marshal Ney, 
who was afterwards tried by the 
Chambre des Pairs, and condemned after 
we had left Paris. 



On November 20, the Peace between 
the Allied Powers was signed, and we 
prepared for our departure from Paris. 



1 86 Remirdscences of 1815. 

We dined the last day of our stay with 
Lord and Lady Combermere, and I sat 
by Prince Leopold of Saxe-Coburg. In 
the evening Lady Frances Cole took 
me for a short time to a ball given by 
General Sir Edward Barnes, and a 
melancholy ball I thought it, for there 
was a succession of leave-takings with 
friends and acquaintances, both English 
and foreign, with whom I had been 
living in pleasant intercourse for the last 
few months ; and again I felt, with 
Madame de Stael, ' que cest un triste 
plaisir que cehii de voyager : ' yet it was 
at the same time gratifying to be sur- 
rounded by persons all expressing their 
regrets and good wishes. The next 
morning we started on our journey 
homewards. Lord and Lady Castle- 
reagh travelled together in the chariot. 



i8i5. A Septuagenarian. 187 

and I went in the coach with Lord 
Clive and Lady Castlereagh's maid. 
We slept that night at Montreuil (I 
think), and the next morning a different 
arrangement was made, which, though not 
quite selon les regies, was very pleasant. 
Ancrum and Sir Henry Hardinge 
having overtaken us, they came into the 
coach with Lord CHve and me, and the 
maid was turned out into another car- 
riage to make room for them. This 
day's journey was indeed a most agree- 
able one. We were all gay, good- 
humoured and conversable ; and Sir 
Henry Hardinge gave us very interest- 
ing accounts of the harassing and dis- 
astrous retreat of our army, ending with 
the glorious battle of Corunna and the 
death of Sir John Moore, who expired, 
if I remember correctly, in Sir Henry's 



1 88 Reminiscences of 1867. 

arms. We had a good passage ; on 
landing, Lord Castlereagh went to Lord 
Liverpool, at Walmer Castle, for one 
night ; the rest proceeded together to 
London, and I accompanied Lady 
Castlereagh to St. James's Square, 
where I remained some days. 

Lord and Lady Castlereagh received 
a command to the Pavilion from the 
Prince Regent, who was so . gracious as 
to include me in the invitation ; but as 
my father was expecting me at Mount 
Edgcumbe, Lady Castlereagh made my 
respectful excuses to His Royal High- 
ness. 

1867. 

With this second Peace, and this 
second return home, I had intended to 
bring my Reminiscences to a close. 



1867. A Septuagenarian, 189 

though there was much I could tell of 

people and events that passed before me 

while living with my father, as well as 

during my married and court life ; but 

besides the fear of being called a 

garrulous old woman, I thought that as 

the . events became more recent, they 

would lose their interest from being 

more generally known ; and what 

weighed most with me, was the fear 

that various little anecdotes I could 

relate, though amusing, might perhaps 

wound the feelings of many still living.. 

A suggestion, however, has just been 

made to me, and a wish expressed, that 

I should subjoin some little traits of 

Lord Castiereagh in his domestic life. 

His character as a statesman has now 

risen to that eminence which party 

spirit, malignity, and envy, denied it for 



190 Reminiscences of 1867. 

many years, and history and posterity 
will do him justice. 

But of his home life, not much 
seems to be known ; and those who had 
the happiness of being admitted into his 
intimacy, are gradually passing away, 
and few are now left to speak of it. I 
am one of those few : and if, by recalling 
some of the memories of former days, I 
can remove one prejudice against him, 
or excite one feeling of kindly admiration, 
it will be a source of unspeakable gra- 
tification to me. 

The calm dignity of his manner gave 
an impression that he was cold ; but no 
one who had seen his kindly smile, or 
been greeted by his two hands stretched 
out in welcome, could have thought him 
so. To all those connected with him, 
he was most affectionate. When his 



1867. A Septuagenarian. 191 

sister-in-law, Lady Catherine Stewart, 
was taken ill during the absence of his 
brother Charles with the army, he 
attended upon her constantly, gave her 
with his own hands her medicines, and 
was with her when she died. 

He liked the society of young people, 
and far from checking their mirth and 
their nonsense, he enjoyed and en- 
couraged it, with his own fun and cheer- 
fulness. His tastes were simple : he 
loved the country and a country life, and 
it was delightful to see his look of quiet 
happiness while taking a saunter after 
an early dinner, in his pretty grounds at 
Cray, and finishing with an evening 
ride or drive, often prolonged until after 
dark. On his return home he would sit 
down and write at the same table, round 
which we all sat If an air were played 



192 Reminiscences of 1867. 

that pleased him, he would go to the 
pianoforte and sing it ; if a waltz, he 
would say, ' Emma, let us take a turn,' 
and after waltzing for a few minutes, he 
would resume his writing. His power 
of abstraction was indeed remarkable ; 
our talking and laughter did not disturb 
him ; once only do I recollect that he 
rose from his chair laughing, and saying, 
' You are too much for me to-night,' 
carried off his papers to what was called 
his own room, but in which he rarely if 
ever sat, always preferring the general 
drawing-room. 

The next morning at breakfast, he 
good-humouredly observed, ' You fairly 
beat me last night. I was writing what I 
may call the metaphysics of politics.' 

The word ' fear ' was not in his vo- 
cabulary. This is well known ; but I 



1867. A Septuagenarian. 193 

cannot resist relating an instance or two 
of his coolness which recurs now to my 
memory. One night, when an excited 
mob attacked his house, paving stones 
were breaking his windows, and dashing 
across the drawing-room to the imminent 
risk of the destruction of the furniture, 
he quietly mixed with the crowd, till a 
person whispered, ' You are known, and 
had better go in.' He did so, and then 
went to the drawing-room ; where, with 
the utmost composure, he closed the 
shutters of the four windows, a shower 
of stones falling around him. When I 
called the day after to hear what had 
happened, I found him on the point of 
walking out, and as I knew he would 
have to encounter the mob where he 
was going, I persuaded him to let me 
take him in the carriage, and set him 



194 Reminiscences of 1867. 

down. While moving at a foot's pace 
through the crowd, he would keep his 
face at the window, and I feared he 
might have a stone thrown at him. I 
suggested this, but to no purpose, so at 
last I said, ' Pray do not let your nose 
be seen, for it may be recognised, and 
my father would not like to have the 
panel of his carriage broken.' This 
made him laugh, and he turned his 
head, and talked with me, thus putting 
his face and my father's carriage out of 
jeopardy. 

My father and I met him one evening 
at dinner at Count Lieven's, and he 
recounted in the most graphic and 
amusing manner his adventures on the 
previous day at the hustings at Covent 
Garden, where he went to vote for Sir 
Murray Maxwell, the Tory candidate. 



1867. A Septuagenarian. 195 

who contested the election with ' Orator ' 
Hunt 

He had received a letter in the morn- 
ing from Sir Murray's committee, stating 
how important it was that some one 
of note should appear to support him. 
Lord Castlereagh instantly determined 
to go himself, and started off on foot, 
accompanied only by Lord Clanwilliam, 
his private secretary. 

When he took off his hat at the 
hustings to take the oath as to his 
right of voting, his powdered head 
marked him to be a gentleman, so the 
great unwashed began yelling, and when 
' Orator ' Hunt said, ' Allow me to 
present to you Viscount Castlereagh,' 
the yelling became ferocious, increasing 
as he turned to leave the hustings, 
numbers surrounding and hustling him 



196 Reminiscences of 1867. 

and Lord Clanwilliam as they went 
along. In this manner they proceeded 
till they reached St. Martin's Lane, and 
as the crowd appeared to become more 
threatening in its aspect, they thought it 
better to go into a shop, supposing that 
their attendants would then disperse : 
but this hope was vain ; and they were 
prisoners. 

To make the matter worse, there was 
no back exit to the shop, and the people in 
it were either frightened or not friendly. 

At last it was decided that the door 
should be opened sufficiently for Lord 
Clanwilliam to creep out on all fours, 
glide between the legs of the besiegers, 
and go to Bow Street to obtain the aid 
of some constables. This he gallantly 
did, and after sundry kicks and buf- 
fetings, he cleared the crowd, and shortly 



1867. A Septuagenarian. 197 

fell in with a party of twenty constables 
in search of Lord Castlereagh, who it 
was rumoured had been attacked by the 
rabble. Attended by this reinforcement, 
Lord Clanwilliam instantly returned to 
the shop, and Lord Castlereagh was 
released, and proceeded on his walk, still 
followed by the mob. But where was this 
walk to terminate ? Thus accompanied, 
it would not do to go to his own house ; 
so on he went to Whitehall, and when 
he came to the Admiralty, he thought 
he would stop there, as it was ' the 
popular service.' Accordingly he en- 
tered the gate, the constables- forming 
in line across it to keep out the mob, to 
w^hom he turned, and taking off his hat, 
bowed, and smiling, said, ' Gentlemen, I 
thank you for your escort.' He then 
went through the Admiralty, and with 



198 Reminiscences of 1867. 

Lord Clanwilliam, walked across the 
park to St. James' Square. To this 
manly and gracious bearing, which 
called forth the admiration even of those 
opposed to him, and to the kindness, 
consideration, and delightful social 
qualities, that lent an indescribable 
charm to his intercourse with his 
friends, was added the sweetest and 
most perfect temper, which won the love , 
of all around him. 

On the sad day following that of his 
death, one of his servants was asked 
whether he had remarked any change in 
him ; the answer was ' Yes ; ' and being 
further asked to state the nature of the 
change, he replied, ' One day he spoke 
sharply to me ! ' 

Need I" say more ? No. Here, with 
this touching testimony, I will stop. A 



1 867. A Septuagenarian. 199 

mournful conclusion it may seem, but it 
is well that my last Reminiscence should 
be of him who, by his affectionate kind- 
ness, enabled me to see and hear all that 
can give interest to these few pages, 
which I now with much diffidence submit 
to the public as the first and last work 
of a Septuagenarian. 




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